My first chicks (3weeks old) Brood box?

Eirwen

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Hi!
First of all- I have been trawling this forum for a while now and think it's brilliant! :-)17
I will be a first time chicken keeper in 3 weeks time when my 3 week old chicks arrive! 2 cream leg bars, 2 amber stars, and 1 speckledy, black rock, white sussex and silver sussex. 8 in all. They will eventually live in a green frog medium loft (suitable for up to 11 large fowl apparently) with a 100m length of 4ft high electric fence as a run, situated in one of our fields.

I will have many questions to post on here, but my most pressing one is-
How to keep the chicks until they are ready to go out?

What kind of brood box would you use? How big? What would you use as substrate? :-)19
Also, is there particular chick crumb you would recommend?
Any additives, medication, or anything extra really, you think I should be aware of?

I've done a bit of research already obviously, but I would really appreciate the benefit of peoples' experiences!

Thanks in advance,

Eirwen.
 
Hi Eirwin, and welcome to the Forum.
I'm sorry to maybe be putting a bit of a damper on some aspects of your plans, but the following occurred to me as potential problems.

This is the worst possible time of year to be getting chicks, because you will need to keep them inside for the next 2-3 months because of the cold and wet winter conditions. Chicks hatched from February-March onwards get the benefit of Spring sunshine, light is very important, and the rising temperatures mean they can be let out to eat the tender nutritious Spring grass when they are only a few weeks old, and this is enormously beneficial to their growth and development. If you get them now, you will have to provide light, heat and sufficient space for 8 growers, and will therefore need a pen large enough for them, at least 8 square metres or more until they are 10-12 weeks old, also light and heat. They just won't do so well as chicks raised at the natural time of year.
The two Cream Legbars are an autosexing breed so you can be sure of getting females at 3 weeks, but it would not be possible to sex the others with 100% accuracy at that age, so you may well end up with several unwanted cockerels. This could be avoided by getting point of lay pullets (around 16-18 weeks old, which would come into lay at about 22-26 weeks.) All the breeds you've chosen are very suitable as good egg layers, and will make an attractive flock. All should be easily available from dealers as POLs, and at 16 weeks from a commercial source they will also have had all their vaccinations. I'm not sure about the Black Rock, though -true Black Rocks are hard to find, since they all originate from one hatchery in Scotland, which has a few outlets throughout the UK. 'Black Rock' is a registered trade name, so unless your breeder is one of the accredited agents for genuine Rocks, its illegal for him to be selling his birds as such. If they are indeed genuine, they will be very hardy birds but much more independent and feisty than the other hybrids you mention. There are many birds sold under names such as Black Star or Bovans Nera, which are similar to Rocks and very good layers, without quite so much attitude!
It sounds as if you have really good facilities to offer your birds, but I have a Green Frog Medium coop and it would certainly be far too small for 8 large fowl. Green Frog recommend a maximum of 5-6. My coop houses 4 at present, very comfortably, and if could go up to 6 if I chose smallish hybrids such as Columbian Blacktails or Cream Legbars, but certainly no more than that.

I think that, before giving any advice about brood boxes etc, I'd better shut up and see what other people say about raising chicks in November. But my advice would be to wait until Feb-March if you want chicks, (having planned what to do with the inevitable cockerels) or else to get POL hybrids whenever you like, (bearing in mind that they are unlikely to lay until the days lengthen even if they are sold now as point of lay. Pullets not in lay by the end of October generally wait until late Jan- early Feb. before producing eggs - but you would still have a head start compared with getting chicks!)
 
Welcome to the forum Eirwen. Bit of a puzzler really because having chicks at this time of year is a major effort. We hatched last year and, even with cheap electricity, spent a fortune keeping them warm enough to survive. They needed heat until April as cold nights were still problem. Before then we heated the sheds to 20 degrees and more and sheds are not well insulated. As Marigold says a genuine Black Rock will not be sold to you until point of lay. There is an official distributor network. As Marigold says your coop is only suitable for 6 birds -forget what the manufacturer claims, they don't pick up the pieces!

The brood box changes to suit their size and we went up in 5 stages. They start on kitchen paper and move up to soft shavings -their feet are delicate and anything hard will cut them to pieces. Dobson and Horrell chick crumb is excellent. No medication is necessary unless they are in contact with unsterilised ground. Then they need chick crumb with ACS.

To be frank Eirwen I would recommend you cancel your order and wait until Spring.
 
chrismahon said:
Welcome to the forum Eirwen. As Marigold says your coop is only suitable for 6 birds -forget what the manufacturer claims, they don't pick up the pieces!

To be fair to Green Frog, they explicitly recommend 5-6 birds in their medium coop, or four max. If housing large breeds. They're one of the few manufacturers whose recommendations re space can actually be relied on. I'm not sure where you got the information about the coop housing up to 11 large fowl, but it is clearly wrong I'm afraid. Their coops are excellent, though, a very good buy.

By the way,here is the link about genuine Black Rocks http://www.blackrockhens.co.uk/blackrockhatchery.html
 
Hi, if you read back i said I was getting the green frog medium LOFT which is considerably larger than the COOP. I can read on the website that yes the COOP houses house around 4 large fowl, but the LOFT houses up to 11 large fowl. So I would reckon the LOFT would be large enough for 8 medium/large fowl.

As for the Black Rock thing, yes I'm aware that it is a trade name for the line they breed in the hatchery in Scotland, but unfortunately I found so many companies advertising their birds as Black Rock I didn't think it worth mentioning in my current post as I wanted to focus on my immediate issue.
In regards to possibility of cockerels, I hope not as the breeder assured me they could be sexed as day olds, the auto sexing cream leg bars as well as the hybrids. I have read reviews on different sites on the breeder supplying the chicks, and haven't heard of anyone getting a cockerel by mistake. I will let everyone know if I do.

I am also aware that it is indeed winter, which is set to be extra cold this year apparently. Although the breeder assured me they would be fine to go out in the new year, I am prepared to keep them indoors for however long they need. We have several options available, being on a 6 acre plot with a few outbuildings, sheds, and even a few old caravans, all with a power supply. I was thinking our conservatory would do for the first few weeks, it has the benefit of radiators, a power supply, natural light, and close enough so I can keep watch over them.What I was hoping for was that I could have the benefit of people sharing their experiences on what equipment/feed they used and so on (thanks Chris).
 
Oh Chris, you said:
"They needed heat until April as cold nights were still problem."
I was wondering how old your chooks were in April? Did you continue to heat their coop into their adulthood?
I was wondering about that as well, the fact that it might be freezing weather up until May apparently, and whether or not to heat their coop even after they've feathered out?
I know most people say that they can cope well with cold weather, along as you make sure they have fresh water that isn't frozen and clear away some snow around their coop... but it would be good to hear peoples' opinions on that. I may post another thread about this topic in a few days.
 
I assume you have the medium chicken HOUSE Marigold? They do not currently sell one they call COOP, my apologies. http://www.greenfrogdesigns.co.uk/category-s/1553.htm
 
CAPACITY
Poultry Club of Great Britain Guidelines indicate that this house would be suitable for 11 large fowl or 22 bantams. However, we prefer Soil Association Guidelines which require a little more space per bird, and suggest that it is ideal for up to 10 larger birds or 15 bantams.DIMENSIONS
Overall Dimensions: 146 (w) x 118 (h) x 217 (d) cm (including ramp, roof overhang and nest boxes)
House Dimensions: 124 (w) x 118 (h) x 120 (d) cm (excluding ramp, including nest boxes)
Internal Dimensions: 91 (w) x 77(h) x 115 (d) cm (excluding nest boxes)
Ground Clearance: 38cm
Perches: 3 perches, each 69cm usable length
Nest Boxes: 4 nestboxes, each 34 (w) x 23-28 (h) x 25-36 (d) cm (internal measurement)
 
Eirwen said:
I assume you have the medium chicken HOUSE Marigold? They do not currently sell one they call COOP, my apologies. http://www.greenfrogdesigns.co.uk/category-s/1553.htm

Yes, you're right, Eirwin, apologies, and if Green Frog say it can house that many I'm sure it will be fine. One less problem!

And if you are happy to raise them in the conservatory, and provide heat, and maybe light as well in the shortest days, they will be OK, -but I still think they would do better with the benefit of Springtime sunshine, because of the Vitamin D it provides, as well as the stimulation of sunlight on the pituitary gland. Maybe a little Cod Liver Oil on their growers pellets when they get to that stage? This growing time is the basis of healthy development throughout their whole life, and I feel there's not much point in trying to fight Nature by not waiting until conditions improve for them. Much less hard work for you as well!

The Black Rock name isn't really a big issue, I just wanted to be sure you knew what you were getting.

Chicks hatched in February-March could be expected to feather up enough to go outside for a few hours in a sheltered run on fine warm days at around 5-6 weeks old, but if the weather suddenly changed would be in danger of getting chilled by cold winds or rain. It wouldn't be worth risking this, having put so much effort and care into raising them. Its really good not to hatch until April, to make it more likely that they would get warmer temperatures, especially at night. Putting them out would probably be out of the question in December or January, when yours would have reached this age. Adult chickens are very hardy birds, once fully grown, well- feathered and acclimatised to local conditions, in fact they deal better with cold conditions than with summer heat, but this isn't so for chicks, not yet fully feathered and used to warmer conditions. Adult birds never need heating, so long as they have dry, windproof shelter and liquid water, as you say.

I expect you're the same sort of person as me, when I get an idea I want it all to happen yesterday, but with living creatures it may be a good idea to consider when is the natural time for giving them the best possible start.
 
Thanks for the advice about the cod liver oil, will get some in! I have a Bearded Dragon and so have a few uv lamps spare, do you think the chicks would benefit from a little exposure to a uv lamp for a couple of hours a day? They are for reptiles that need sunlight to absorb vitamin d, but not sure if it would be ok to use with chicks? Or I could just stick our halogen heater in there to keep it warm whilst I open the conservatory door for a while to let the uv get through.. not that there will be much about at the mo lol.

I agree that we could have made it easier on our selves by waiting till spring to get our chicks! It's just that a) you're right, I want my hens yesterday, and b) whilst doing my research I came across a lot of people selling hens and chicks of all ages still, so I thought if so many are selling/buying them now then it must be ok for me to do it? and c) we had tonnes of snow last year, starting from mid march (the big one) even until june! So if I waited until we had reliably warm weather I would have to wait until july lol!

Anyway, the fact is that I ordered and paid for the chicks over a week ago, they have hatched today and they will be arriving mid december whether I change my mind or not. Shame I didn't think to post earlier, as your advice may have helped me to resist the urge to get them now and wait for the february half term... Ah well, I will strive to make the best of the situation and hopefully I will have happy hens laying in the spring for me.

I may have to re think a few things, but I would still really appreciate any advice on chick rearing equipment and set ups! Thank you for pointing out the more difficult challenges ahead of me, I will take it on board and give serious thought to keeping them warm and safe over the next couple of months.
 
You will need to make a brood box, for a start about a metre across I should think, to pen them in for the first few weeks. Either use a very large box, (if you've just bought a new oven!) or invent a way of creating a pen with solid sides. If you have some curvy stuff, such as cardboard, you can join the ends to make a circle, which might then be expanded as they grow. It needs to be about 2 ft high minimum. You may need to make a wire frame to cover the top to prevent them jumping out. If you can line the sides with the sort of silver insulation you put behind radiators, the box will retain heat right to the outsides more effectively. The box needs to be big enough for them to move away from the heat lamp if they get too warm, so with 8 large breed chicks the box will need to be large enough for them to do this. You will be surprised at how fast they grow! When they are bigger you can let them out in the conservatory during the day for extra space and they can still roost in the box at night. They don't need perches for the first few months.
There are several ways of heating them. Its best for them if they have a 12-hour day, so you will need to supplement the light to provide this, and if you can offer some UV this would be very helpful I expect. But also its good for them to have 12 hours of darkness to rest naturally. If you use a red lamp, they will stay warm at night but will not get proper darkness. It would be worth investing in a ceramic dull emitter lamp, which only gives out heat and no light. See this link http://countryfayre-countrystore.co.uk/incubation-accessories/ceramic-dull-emitter-150w/prod_255.html I would buy the medium wattage one. To go with this you will need a metal bulb holder, from the Incubation Accessories section of the same website. This comes with a strong chain, which you suspend above the box. This has the advantage that you can alter the temperature by hooking the lamp up higher or lower. I found that it needed to be lowered at night when the temperature dropped, and this will be especially noticeable in the colder months. If you can get this right, you won't need to heat the whole conservatory to such a temperature, which will be much more economical. Buy a max- min greenhouse thermometer if you don't already have one and place it in the box, halfway between the area under the lamp and the edge, to find out what is going on at night. If you can get it right, you may be able to avoid the effects of the conservatory getting cold at night, without having to heat the whole place full blast all winter. The chicks will tell you if they are too cold or too hot, by moving away from the lamp or huddling under it. They should be evenly spread out over the area when active during the day, and sleeping under the central area at night.
You'll need to set this up in advance, and test the temperature, to ensure that you know how to control it and what the lamp will produce at various heights. Also the box needs to be well warmed up, bedding and all, for 24 hours before the chicks arrive, to avoid thermal shock.
The other way to heat chicks is by using an electric hen, such as the Brinsea Ecoglow, see website link above. This is a heating pad that they can get under to warm up, much as they would under a hen. I think 8 chicks 3 weeks old would easily fit under one of these, but as they will need heat at night for much longer than chicks hatched in Spring, I'm not sure if it would be so useful for them as they grew. Also the instructions on mine say that they should only be used where the ambient temperature is 10C. I've found that chicks are less active if relying on these for heat, as they tend to huddle under them and only emerge when hungry enough to feed. Under a lamp, they are more inclined to run around actively all the time. however, I'm talking about quail chicks, which are tiny, so maybe other people can advise on the use of Ecoglows with larger birds for more weeks.
I would line the base with layers of newspaper and top this off with wood shavings, which you will need to poo pick frequently, they are really messy little things. Get a proper chick drinker and feeder, again see Country Fayre for examples, - not the very small ones, as your chicks will be 3 weeks old and thus eating and drinking well we hope, but its important to try to prevent them scratching and pooing in food and water. Keeping the area dry and clean is vital, as of they eat bits of food off a damp warm floor, it may become contaminated with coccidiosis and this is fatal and highly contagious. You may think its a good idea to get some Coxoid, which is stuff you can add to their drinking water if you spot what might be the first signs of cocci. You probably won't need it, but if you do, immediate treatment is the best option. You could support the drinker and feeder up on a concrete block or a brick, so it's at chest height for the smallest chick. This will help keep the contents clean. I do this with my adult hens and it does help.
How are they going to manage the journey from the breeder to you? Are they going to be delivered or will you collect them? If the latter, you'll need to invent an insulated box, maybe with a heat pad or hot water bottle in the base, covered with a towel, but well ventilated as well.

Good luck, we shall be very interested in how you get on.
 
Hi Eirwen, I use wood shavings as bedding material and use corrugated plastic to form a brooding ring a bit like the one featured here: http://www.flytesofancy.co.uk/chickenhouses/Plastic_Brooding_Ring.html
though you will probably be able to find cheaper and larger sheets elsewhere, I like this set up as you can start the chicks off in a small area for the first couple of weeks so they stay close to their food, water and brooder and don't get lost and then you can let out the size as the chicks grow, though this won't be such a problem if they are already 3 weeks, it also has the advantage of them not getting stuck in corners. I used marriages chick crumbs which I've been happy with though they do have acs in them so if you are wanting to go organic it may not be for you,I follow that with marriages growers at 5-6 weeks. I use a brinsea eco 20 brooder for heat which I have found to be very good. You will also need to make some kind of mesh lid for your brooder box or ring as at around 3 weeks they will start to try and escape vertically. As to size, this is where you will run into problems later on as they grow, but for 8 chicks the product on the web would should be sufficient for about the first 4-5 weeks. Remember to raise your drinkers up as they will scratch shavings into them which will suck up all the water and also make sure they are very stable as the chicks jump on them, barge them and generally have a good go at spilling water everywhere. In any case you will find yourself scooping shavings out of drinkers 2-3 times a day minimum. I would recommend small amounts of natural yoghurt 3-4 times a weeks as a supplement.
 
Hello Eirwen. We hatched last October so our chicks were about 4 weeks older than yours will be when it gets really cold. We had them under red light for 7 days then they went to night and day using ceramic and white lights -12 hours night and 12 day. We also used a large electric hen to try and reduce the electricity costs. The enclosures were all cardboard taped together -we got the cardboard from a local electrical shop. Started small and made bigger ones until they went into a 6 x 8 shed. Problem we had was keeping the temperature constant across the night. Set the lamp right in daytime temperatures and it is fine until it gets really cold in the early hours. We knew they were suffering as they were all fighting to get closest to the lamps. So I rigged a thermostat and a second night light for background heat but as it got colder I had to use a 1KW oil filled radiator instead. Got them perched at switchover with a lantern. When the cockerels started fighting they were separated -two sheds needed the same equipment and the electricity bill went through the roof -in the region of £300 for the whole exercise. We had the added problem of frequent power cuts as the supply is extremely unreliable in the Dordogne. So we had battery backups and an emergency generator ready. Chick feather dust gets everywhere so be ready of that and don't put them in the house for long.

All our chicks get probiotic yoghurt at 2 days -just a spot in the beak. Feeding them on D&H chick crumb and started mixing in growers pellets from 6 weeks. They sell chick mixed grain here which is very small, so at that time they got a treat of that as well. They needed grit and we couldn't get small grit here so we sieved the regular stuff to get the small pieces out. The cockerels were eaten from 20 weeks -basically the fighters went first. Bullying with the cockerels was a big problem.

Hope that helps you. Not an exercise we will ever repeat unless we get a cockerel sudden death and need to in order to preserve a breeding set, which is basically why we did it in the first place.
 
Thanks all for sharing your advice on set ups and equipment! I'll be checking out those websites now and doing some more research! Because of my reptile set up I already have some idea of heating and lighting equipment, and have old equipment around which I've upgraded from, so using some of those may be an option.. I was wondering if reptile heating mats could be used the same way as your electric hens.. will have to check the temperature of the mat itself and the ambient air around it.. I've just bought a new one so will test it out. I also have various bulbs of different wattages and colours, and even an old tank (4ft x 2ft) which I could include in their enclosure as it has 2 sockets in it, they might be able to use it to sleep in, if I take the glass doors off.. We also have tonnes of cardboard boxes and polystyrene stored in one of the caravans ( we hang on to a lot of old stuff as you can see, hopefully some of it might actually come in handy!) These are only a few of the ideas floating through my head at the mo!

Will keep you all updated on how my ideas are going, really appreciate the tips thanks! Keep em coming ;)
 
Marigold said:
How are they going to manage the journey from the breeder to you? Are they going to be delivered or will you collect them? If the latter, you'll need to invent an insulated box, maybe with a heat pad or hot water bottle in the base, covered with a towel, but well ventilated as well.

To answer your question Marigold the chicks will be delivered in a van with all the specialised equipment, so I'm glad I don't have to worry about that!

Thank you as well for all your advice, good thing about the dull emitter is I can carry on using it with my lizard, so it won't go to waste once the chicks are grown! Much to think about! :-)05

In the conservatory we can give them 0.9m width x 4m length in an L shape run to sleep in, and double that to run around during the day, using an old 3ft high puppy pen. I hope this is big enough until they are are ready to go out, if they do outgrow this space before they are ready to go out (between 9-12 weeks?) I have a few options in mind about an intermediate area outside in a space in-between two outbuildings where we have a corrugated plastic roof above, so in affect a 3 sided shelter, that has a wire mesh gate covering the entire opening space which has a padlock. I am parking my car there at the mo but I don't need to, I could put their green frog coop in here with a heat source as it has a power source in the outbuildings next to it, this could be converted to be used between the ages 9-12 weeks (or longer if the weather is severe) I'm hoping as my car has never frozen under there, after that I'm hoping they'll definitely be ok to move their coop to the field where they will have a tree and an old empty caravan to shelter from any harsh weather, surrounded by a 4ft high electric fence..
 
With regards to bedding, Marigold suggested news paper with wood shaving on top, is wood shavings the only option with chicks 3weeks+? Or are there other options to consider, like Aubiose? And is something like BioDri ok to use with chicks? The floor of our conservatory is solid and wipeable, and the whole area is old and due for a total revamp and so luckily I'm not bothered about any mess. The area is also closed off from the rest of the house, so not too worried about dust or smells. However, I would like the best bedding possible for my chicks that is absorbent, clean, and the most healthy for them. So just wondering what my options are :)
 
Another question- When should you start supplementing chicks? I was looking at things like Nettex Vit Boost, and was wondering if there's an age when you can start with supplements or can you start right away, or are there some more useful than others?
I have already bought poultry ACV, and will get chick grit, but not sure when I should start giving them other 'health boosters'. Cod liver oil was suggested by Marigold which I will get in.
 
Eirwen said:
I was wondering if reptile heating mats could be used the same way as your electric hens..

I don’t think a reptile mat would work. An electric hen is a warm hot plate on legs. The chicks keep warm by going under the hot plate, they need to be able to touch the underside of the plate with their backs. As the chicks grow the plate is gradually raised. The electric hen I have has threaded bar legs. As Marigold says the ambient temperature needs to be 10°C which I think would be difficult to maintain during the winter in a conservatory. This really is not the time of the year to be rearing chicks. Under natural conditions most hens lay less eggs in the winter and any eggs which are produced will have a lower fertility rate. The hens just concentrate on their own survival during the cold weather.

In my opinion when your chicks no longer need heat you will need to keep them in a large shed as they will not be able to go outside until the warmer weather arrives in the spring. The Green Frog coop would be too small to keep them shut in all the time. This thread has made me realise how easy it is to rear poultry during the spring and summer.

Have you no friends who keep chicken so that you can see their setups and get advice?
 
3441sussex said:
I don’t think a reptile mat would work. An electric hen is a warm hot plate on legs. The chicks keep warm by going under the hot plate, they need to be able to touch the underside of the plate with their backs. As the chicks grow the plate is gradually raised.

As Marigold says the ambient temperature needs to be 10°C which I think would be difficult to maintain during the winter in a conservatory.

The Green Frog coop would be too small to keep them shut in all the time. This thread has made me realise how easy it is to rear poultry during the spring and summer.

Have you no friends who keep chicken so that you can see their setups and get advice?

Thanks to the magic of google I have been able to read how 'electric hens' work, and I was just thinking out loud really about if I could use my reptile heat mat in the same way as an electric hen, i.e. to stick it to a piece of cardboard and suspend it horizontally with the heat mat pointing down. They emit infra-red rays in the same way as an electric hen, and also the mats themselves get very warm, as with an electric hen. I have yet to test the surface temperature of my new heat mat or the ambient temperature directly underneath it, so of course I would have to do this before considering the idea further. I wouldn't want to risk the little ones burning themselves. I will post when I have the temps from my experiment.

As for the temperature of my conservatory, thankfully although it's the furthest room from the rest of the house, and closed off with a normal door with window pains set through out, it's adjoined to my warm living room, and has its own radiator. One end of the brooder area will be in close contact with the radiator, and I have just purchased a ceramic lamp and bulb (as recommended by Marigold- thanks) to help keep the chicks warm during the first few weeks with me, they will already be 3 weeks upon arrival.

As to the Green Frog Loft being too small for them to be kept shut in all the time- of course it is, I wouldn't dream of keeping them shut in a coop during the day. If you read back my posts again, I said I could keep them and their coop with a heater in an area I am currently parking my car in. I already explained that this area is 3 sided with a corrugated plastic roof, and the 'open' side is a gate with a wire mesh covering the whole opening, which also has a padlock. This area is large enough to park a tractor in. It has a mixture of gravel and grass floor, but that is something I could change if necessary . I would imagine that I could keep them in the conservatory up until at least 8 weeks (which would bring us to middle of January, where light hours would be about what they are right now) then put them in the enclosed area for a few weeks with their lamp and coop, then I guess I would have to see how much they have feathered out and coping with whatever the weather will be like before I know when I could transfer them into the field with their coop with no heat (except for microwavable heat pads I have that I could put in at night). A lot depends upon temperatures and weather over the next couple of months, as I have mentioned before, last year we had a few feet of snow mid march last year, and continued having snow fall up until june, so we will just have to see.

In regards of me having friends with chickens- I know a few people with chickens, all who have completely different set-ups that work for them for different reasons. I'm not worried about my eventual set up that I have previously explained (having my Green Frog Loft in one of our fields with a tree and an old caravan for shelter and 100 meters long 4 ft high electric fencing to keep them safe). What I am concerned about, as my initial post suggests, is the set ups of brooder boxes. I don't personally know anyone who has reared chicks, and so that is why I joined this forum to gain the benefit of other peoples' experiences and what worked well for them. I have already had a lot of useful information kindly shared with me, and used that information to help me decide on some important purchases today.

On that note- thanks to everyone who gave me useful advice over the last couple of days! I am already much more confident in making my decisions upon which equipment to use and how best to use them, thank you! :-)17
 
Hi Eirwin,
I think inverting the heat pad to make what is, in essence, an electric hen, would be a interesting and worthwhile experiment, but if you've got a ceramic lamp this would probably work better in the cold because it's more of a space heater, with the warmth funnelled downwards evenly by the metal lamp holder. As I said earlier, they're more likely to stay active if their feeding and exercising space is heated under a lamp, and it's easier to tell what the actual felt temperature is for them than with infrared pads. But it would be good nonetheless to have a backup in the unlikely event that the lamp blows or gets broken. A simpler backup would be to have a red heat bulb as a spare which could be quickly changed. Power cuts are more of a worry in winter, when they are still dependent on external heat. Have you thought of this?
Another consideration we haven't mentioned is that, although they feather up quite nicely by around 8-10 weeks, they then do a juvenile moult between about 10 and 15 weeks, i.e they drop their chick feathers to grow adult plumage before arriving at POL. This is a bit like children shedding baby teeth as they grow. The actual timing for the start and finish of feather drop varies between breeds, some do it quite fast, others take several weeks, but during this time some may have quite thin plumage and thus less insulation, which has to be taken into account when putting them outdoors. Transfer to the outdoors needs to be done carefully, it's really just a question of careful acclimatisation, but with our unpredictable weather you may need to be putting them out for a while during the day on fine days, in a smaller run or enclosure on the grass, with the top covered with clear plastic to keep them dry, and back to their carport at night. They can be quite easily trained to follow you if you shake a box containing mixed corn, this is a very entertaining thing to do!
 

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