chrismahon
Well-known member
I've been experimenting with a DIY process for drying unseasoned timber to use in the wood burner. It must be lower than 20% humidity otherwise the flue soots up. 25% of the water content is 'cellular entrapment', which means you have to break the cells open to get the water out. This is normally done by 'seasoning' for two years, which rots the cells and they split. The alternative is kiln drying above 50 degrees, but less than 60 degrees or the wood can explode. So I've taken the two apex panels from the greenhouse out and put wood in there. Working a treat, with the wood drying to 5 -10% within 2 weeks.
So I'm in there taking wood out and look at the thermometer which reads off the scale -so over 50 degrees. Thinks to myself "I must be getting used to the heat over here", been 32 -35 in the shade for a couple of weeks now. But I decided to check the thermometer after a while, only to discover that the bulb had exploded in the heat! That's hot. Must have been over 60 degrees in there.
Apparently a good method in the UK is to put it in a polytunnel, open at both ends for a year. But over here the plastic would melt.
So I'm in there taking wood out and look at the thermometer which reads off the scale -so over 50 degrees. Thinks to myself "I must be getting used to the heat over here", been 32 -35 in the shade for a couple of weeks now. But I decided to check the thermometer after a while, only to discover that the bulb had exploded in the heat! That's hot. Must have been over 60 degrees in there.
Apparently a good method in the UK is to put it in a polytunnel, open at both ends for a year. But over here the plastic would melt.