Bumpa beak bits

chrismahon

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Feather pecking and cannibalism in caged birds in too small a space is routine. Beak bits consisting of a metal or plastic ring are usually used on pheasants. De-beaked pheasants are not what the paying shooter expects. Chickens are usually de-beaked but birds for the public, who wouldn't buy de-beaked chickens are either reared with enough space or fitted with beak bits which are removed before sale.

Conventional beak bits I would describe as cruel. They are a simple ring crimped into the nasal holes. They don't fit in any way comfortably and prevent the beak from closing in a very crude manner. They obstruct normal movement of the tongue and I wouldn't dream of fitting them to a chicken. The intention is to prevent closure to pull out feathers or flesh, but they don't eliminate pecking.

Domestic keepers do encounter feather pecking. It is usually tacked by spraying the poor victim with a smelly sticky compound to discourage the attacker. Problem is the poor victim gets a beak full of the foul tasting stuff every time they try to preen. The attacker just picks on another better tasting victim.

We used to identify the attacker, rather than the victim, and remove them for a period. This worked on occasions, but we have culled good birds for persistent cannibalism. Wish we had known about Bumpa beak bits earlier!!

Bumpa beak bits are very carefully designed to fit with minimal discomfort but prevent the beak closing tightly and importantly to stop aggressive pecking. In our experience the birds are used to them within a day and can eat and forage as normal. They are available mail order from Omlet, but don't bother asking them for any detailed information. All I got was "none of us would ever fit these to our chickens, so we can't help".

As an example I have photographed 'mad' Molly, a little Cream Legbar who is rather aggressive and likes eating feathers. Rest to follow when I have resized the photos again, as they are still 50% too big.
 
Bumpabit1.jpg

We tried isolating her but she just went crazy. All the hens in her run were going bald. So despite the blue eggs it was the Bumpa or cull.

Bumpabit2.jpg

The bits have a part that fits in the beak, two balls that fit the nasal holes and a bumper at the front to stop pecking. To fit them easily you need a pair of External Circlip Pliers.

Bumpabit3.jpg

External Circlip Pliers differ from internal types- when you squeeze the handles the jaws open. Completely the opposite to normal.

Bumpabit4.jpg

So it is fitted from above with the bird secured in a towel by an assistant. She wasn't happy for a day and started laying again a week later. Afetr 3 months she wore through the bit so we tried her without. Within 5 minutes she was feather pecking again so a replacement Bumpa was fitted. This will be permanent.
 
Thank you for that Chris - very interesting as I've never seen this type before but have used the metal ones on pheasants. I think my castration rings applicator would also be OK for inserting them as they work on the same principle.
 
Very interesting post I got some of the beak bits mentioned but have not had the heart to fit them to one of my girls (the only one with full set of feathers) so will now look into the bumpa bits they seem a little more humane. But since obtaining four new girls the pecking order seems to have changed a little so hopefully this will be a more natural way to stop her feather pecking.
 
Hi
Interesting post.
Although I have to say that feather pecking is not just restricted to birds confined in a limited space. My girls free-range and I am getting it and have been for ages. The two birds at the bottom of the pecking order seem to be the main victims.
I bought some of these bumpa bits a while ago but the trouble is I have no idea who the culprit is. I have never caught any of them doing it.
I have been cursed with persistant feather pecking since the first day I got chickens 4 years ago. Just can't seem to stop it.
I have tried every anti-pecking spray on the market but nothing seems to work.
I did stop them pecking one bird by putting a saddle on her. They pecked her feather so badly that she had a large completely bald patch about the size of a tennis ball on her back. I waited until all her feathers had grown back before I removed the saddle and they now leave her alone. Her feathers have completely grown back. so fitting a saddle certainly worked on that one bird as she now looks a picture of health.. The saddle I used was not designed as an anti pecking saddle so I am now designing one specifically for the job. It worked on one bird so it may work on all of them. My logic is that they can't peck what they can't get at.
I'll let you know what happens.
 
Problem is Willow they can't preen the new feathers. But I agree you are stuck if you can't find the culprit(s), who are probably doing it in the morning inside the coop before they are let out and she can avoid them. Then, as in our case, you may find the feather pecker has a permanent habit which can't be broken.
 
You could try fitting a bumpa bit to a couple of the main suspects, and see what didference, if any, it made. If it still happened, take the bits off the first two and try putting them on a couple of the others, and thus narrowing it down and finding out who was the culprit. (or indeed, if it was a general problem, that more than one had learned.)
 
It is a problem finding the culprits and in some cases the only solution would be to do the whole lot. Looking at these again, I don't see these as any better from a welfare point of view than a well fitted metal one.
 
Well as I said it has worked with one bird. She is being completely left alone now.
Yes I do realise they can't preen properly but once a week I took the saddle off and let the cured one do what she needed to do while I stood down there watching. Just for about an hour. While it was off I also checked her for mites etc.
She doesn't seem to have suffered for this. The saddle did the job with her where all else failed. She is now completely left alone. In total she had the saddle on for about a month. Maybe 6 weeks. certainly no more than that. If I can find some before and after photos I'll post them here.
 
Sure you've made a good device there Willow. Beak bit aren't to be fitted without exhausting all the other options. Not all of us have the skills to make a saddle of that nature.
 
Neither have I but its handy having a mum who is a dressmaker.
When its made I'll post a photo.
 
My cocrels are fighting and little bantam orpington is on loosing side as the other is at least twice his size.I need to get hold of them fast and maybe one life will be spared if they work.
 
Sure they will Tygrysek. They wear through the part in contact with the beak edges in about three months and need replacing before that. We've just had a Buff Orpington who went through a feather eating phase during her moult. The bit is out now after a month and is quite badly worn.
 
I have been using Bumpa Bits for a while now and find they work well but being plastic they will brake and you need to keep an close eye on them, also keep an eye on the beak as this can also wear around the but and then render useless.
 
I had fited this on my cockrell yesterday evening before bed time, but he seems to have trouble eating with this.Empty crop in the evening before bed today.Have no idea if he was eating during the day as I was away.Do you have any advise on this? Is he going to get used to it and start to eat as he should?If he can't eat suerly he can't preen himself either.Help!
The bumpa bit is put on him correcty.
 
Takes them a while to get used to it and they can't preen that well but ours have managed some how and those with the beak bits have feathered up properly. He should start eating tomorrow otherwise you have no option but to remove it for a while and then replace it. I realise it's your last resort.
 
Just jumping on the back of this thread -
I have 5 hens, 4 of which are being feather pecked really badly by a particular hen. I have bought bumpa bits and decided to fit one tonight. I didn't manage to get it on as I was really worried that it was too tight as she created merry hell when I first put it on.
I've sprayed the other girls in purple spray to deter her pecking, but other than using the bit I don't know what else to do?
Is it possible to rehome her or will she have to be culled? The other 4 girls are a right mess, so I need to do something ASAP. It would be a crying shame to cull her as she is a happy healthy hen, who lays well. Any advice will be greatly received x
 
Yet to gain experience of this problem, but expect to soon when mixing two new hens with my three 18 month monsters! But received some interesting advice from the lady at Warks Chicken Coop when I bought some antiseptic spray - " don't spray your whole chickens bum purple. It attracts attention." I was surprised as I had understood that it draws attention away from a wound but the wise lass is very experienced and I guess it's use has sensible limits! An excellent antiseptic by all accounts.
Can you seperate the troublemaker for a while to try to break the habit?
 
We have a Wyandotte feather pecker at the moment. She pecks at the cockerel while confined to the run so there must be an element of boredom. Once she tasted the blood in his new tail feathers the only way to stop her was a beak bit. Surprisingly she took to it without any problems and his tail feather growth has resumed, although they won't be as nice as they could have been I think. She is 5 years old so you would think she'd have calmed down?

Separation does sometimes work Kimbab71, but to save a lot of wasted effort we fit a beak bit immediately. As I mentioned at the beginning of this post we have culled persistent offenders in the past. After 3 months separation they started again immediately and we didn't know about Bumpa bits.

The length of the bit is important. It must protrude past the end of the beak by at least 3mm. Omlet supply individual 25mm length bits but we have had to buy 30mm bits from Gamekeepa Supplies who sell them to pheasant rearers in quantities of 100.
 

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