Building a new run

I think plastic coops is the way forward for a low maintenance static coop or an infrequently moved one. Wood needs frequent treatment to preserve it. I use it because it is cheap, lightest and easily worked with simple tools. There are advantages with modification, insulation and breathability, but if I had the money for an easier life I would probably go plastic. Sure they hold their value better as well.

I doubt you can paint it. I know Polypropylene won't take paint without expensive surface oxidation treatment and I expect most of the plastic used has the same problem. Engineering plastics are better but far too expensive for a coop.
 
It doesn't need painting in order to preserve it and close up you can see little coloured flecks of the original plastic colours. We were told that Ecosheet works just as easily as wood with the same tools. The modification I would make to the Solway Ecohouse is to replace the plastic perches with timber - they slide in from the side. Solway also make something called Stokboard which is much more expensive but comes in different colours. In the thinner grades it can be curved - it's what they use for the Ecohouse. It's now used in lorries and on trailers instead of phenolic coated ply.
 
I may start gently and work up Margaid. First a floor, then the doors and so on. Just to get used to working with the stuff. Although the door will still need wood bracing as ours are 800 x 600, so will the floor because I stand in them to clean them out.
 
You wouldn't need to brace the doors Chris, and if an 8 x 4 sheet was supported all the way round you should be able to stand on it (this is 18mm Ecosheet, not Stokboard). OH says it is easily as strong as plywood of that thickness. Of course I don't know how big/heavy you are - that might make a difference!!
 
I'm only little by todays standards Margaid -have to be to squeeze into cupboards and lofts to sort out plumbing problems. Sounds really heavy though but much better for cleaning. Perhaps the next coop set will have plastic floors, or I could use it on these new coops if the sheets are 1220 x 2440 -I haven't bought the floor ply yet. But how much does it weigh?

Found the manufacturer's web site Margaid. I'll get some answers from them as I would like to see it before I buy two sheets for the bases for the 6 coops. Would save painting the 18mm plywood and it makes little difference to the light levels in the coop as there is bedding over most of it. I also need to make sure the foam in the centre is closed cell so It won't take in water when it's hosed down. Price is OK, just £15 or so more a sheet, so an extra £5 per coop.
 
If you have a Wynnstay farmers merchant near you they stock it. From a previous post you said you were near the A38 so this is probably your nearest www.wynnstaygroup.co.uk/stores_uttoxeter.html. Both Solway and Paul Heritage ( see my post on previous page ) were really helpful. Heritage are just south of the M6 near Corley. Either of them would probably send you a small sample. I also wanted to see it first and wanted OH to as he is an Engineer and could ask all the right questions (and will probably end up cutting it up for me). OH has just calculated it weighs approx 30 Kg per 8' x 4' (2440 x 1220) sheet. It floats like wood. So heavyish to handle on your until you make the first cut. Hope this helps Chris - PM me if you want more info, I don't want to take over the thread.
 
Thanks Margaid. Have loads of info now. Store is quite close and will call them. A sheet weighs 33 Kg apparently. Two concerns are does it need special headed fixings so screws don't punch through and won't the voids, that seem to be in the photos, in the cut edge fill with red mite?
 
According to all the info I have you don't need special fixings, self-tapping posidrive screws are recommended - I have a small sample and it is very hard. BTW according to Ecosheet.com it can be painted if you sand it first, but that defeats the object for me. In the construction I was planning there wouldn't be too many exposed edges - I will (well OH) will either rebate the edge sections (just a square section) you can get to provide the corner joins or just butt joint them and seal them with one of the myriad sealants. Ecosheet recommend Isopon Bumper Filler from Halfords as a good colour match - presumably it's a 2 pack filler which one could just wipe down any cut edges. I'd missed that one - I was only thinking about the joints so thanks for that Chris.
 
I can only suppose you'd want to paint it if you don't like the colour, because plastic wouldn't need protection. In that case, would spray paint be a good option?
 
OH has just been looking into these sheets. We have a design in mind to make our own easy maintenance but high quality housing and now considering the nestboxes and floor made out of eco-board or stockboard. Still looking into the differences between the two recyced plastics but the easy clean stockboard looks interesting.

I have stickied this thread as there is so much useful information in here! :D
 
"Stokboard" is the more expensive product. It comes in different thicknesses (6, 9 and 12 mm) in 8' x4' sheets at £23, £34.50 and £46 plus VAT respectively. It also comes in 10' x 5' sheets 6mm (£38) and 9mm (£57.50) + VAT. It also comes in different colours - black, green, grey and red. The 6mm and 9mm are flexible - see Solway's Ecohouse.

Ecosheet comes in a flecked grey in 8' x 4' sheets at £36 plus VAT. For its' weight it is much more rgigd than Stokboard but does have to problem Chris pointed out of small voids in the cut edges. OH thinks it should be possible to heat seal the edges (ie melt them with a blowtorch) but we have yet to do the experiment! If we do I'll post the result.

I think it's a case of "you pays your money and takes your choice". If I can get a satisfactory seal to cut edges I think I'll just use Ecosheet, otherwise I may use a combination - I need at least 4 sheets to build my variation of a Poultry Palace (my girls love the one my friend has built although I'm thinking of an Ecohouse as well so I can have the Welsummers with a cockerel and some Welsh Black hens with a cockerel. I'll use any leftovers to make a broody coop.

I'm also thinking of using external Chick boxes - need to do another post with some questions having read Tim's review of these.
 
foxy said:
OH has just been looking into these sheets. We have a design in mind to make our own easy maintenance but high quality housing and now considering the nestboxes and floor made out of eco-board or stockboard. Still looking into the differences between the two recyced plastics but the easy clean stockboard looks interesting.

I have stickied this thread as there is so much useful information in here! :D
Click to expand...
We've been 'Sticked' :lol:
 
Most of ours are on 80mm wide x 38mm deep Castara. Reason is I thought they have more to rest their chests on and they are mostly Orpingtons and old. Some have full shelves which they like best, but beware dirty bums. But some have 2" wide and are very happy. Not sure if it's because they can actually grip the perch with their back toe as well so they feel more secure -as they would in a tree. Next coops will all have 45mm square with rounded top edges because space is at a premium (and it's cheapest). They are made from 2" sawn, which is then planed to remove all the rough pieces that red mite can live under. We don't treat the perches at all, just the ends. I have tried to get 2 and a half" planed (58mm) but around here it isn't available anywhere. None of the future coops I build will have shelves for perching. We have a Chinese coop with 30mm perches and every bird has hated them and has ended up sleeping on the floor!
 
I use 2'' x 2'' bought from the timber merchant with four rounded edges, planed and treated and about 8' long. something to do with gardening I think.
 
chrismahon said:
Most of ours are on 80mm wide x 38mm deep Castara. Reason is I thought they have more to rest their chests on and they are mostly Orpingtons and old. Some have full shelves which they like best, but beware dirty bums. But some have 2" wide and are very happy. Not sure if it's because they can actually grip the perch with their back toe as well so they feel more secure -as they would in a tree. Next coops will all have 45mm square with rounded top edges because space is at a premium (and it's cheapest). They are made from 2" sawn, which is then planed to remove all the rough pieces that red mite can live under. We don't treat the perches at all, just the ends. I have tried to get 2 and a half" planed (58mm) but around here it isn't available anywhere. None of the future coops I build will have shelves for perching. We have a Chinese coop with 30mm perches and every bird has hated them and has ended up sleeping on the floor!
Click to expand...
Do they sit on the 80 mm bit or the 38mm bit?????
 
They sit on the 80mm bit Castara. So their lower legs and feet are across the plank and their chests on top. They balance well as they have a large area to spread the weight but importantly their poo drops over the back onto the floor, Their toes close up together and they are very relaxed as they are not balancing and gripping. They actually fall asleep whereas the ones gripping just doze.

I'm talking myself into continuing with them and not using the 45mm square!!
 
chrismahon said:
They sit on the 80mm bit Castara. So their lower legs and feet are across the plank and their chests on top. They balance well as they have a large area to spread the weight but importantly their poo drops over the back onto the floor, Their toes close up together and they are very relaxed as they are not balancing and gripping. They actually fall asleep whereas the ones gripping just doze.

I'm talking myself into continuing with them and not using the 45mm square!!
Click to expand...
Thank You sir , That'll do me , I've got just the piece ,somewhere?
 
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