I have read that you should really give a second course of Flubenvet 3 weeks after the first to be really sure of breaking the cycle, followed by probiotic yoghurt to reline the gut. Does anyone know if this is necessary or not? Also, should you worm once, twice or four times a year - there seem to be differing opinions on this?
Worming - how often?
- Thread starter elmdene
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chrismahon
Well-known member
We do Flubenvet premix every 6 months with Vermex in-between. But when this lot of Vermex has finished I won't bother again as it doen't seem very effective. Probiotic yoghurt just adds flora (is that the right term?) to the gut as it does in humans. Chickens love it on bread as a treat though. Don't think it's necessary after worming but it won't do any harm and they will enjoy it.
One of the problems is that there's so much written that is conflicting that keeprs get confused.
Keep it simple I say and if the manufacturers say give yoghurt do and if they don't say do, don't ! All will be written in the drug literature which comes with the drug including how often to give.
Keep it simple I say and if the manufacturers say give yoghurt do and if they don't say do, don't ! All will be written in the drug literature which comes with the drug including how often to give.
wendywoggles
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I know I'm a newbie and just learning my-self but my understanding is to worm with Flubenvet at least every 6 months and if they freerange then more often than that at least every 4 months.I've offered probiotic yoghurt to my girls twice and they hated it
Bertie & The Chooks
New member
Here's the basics.
Worming should ideally be about every 6mths if they are in an enclosed area, but if they have the lay of the land and may go to places where other animals go or may feed on dead animals in any way they should be done at least every 4mths.
The reasons for this:
When you worm, you only kill the worms in their body. Naturally the worms will shed eggs and reproduction spawn through their faeces and some through dead skin cells. If they are being wormed these will be put into the ground area of where ever they are kept during this worming period. It's recommended that you treat the ground if you are in a small holding and remove any passed faeces from their dwelling if possible to reduce reinfection. Some die hards will worm their animals in a special place and then treat the usual place while they are worming, turning the ground and letting it rest, them moving them back once the course is complete. But, you can't be perfect!
It's also to keep vermin down as well, so any rats or mice coming in can't reinfect them as well. wild birds are usually the ones that carry in the spawn and eggs though so it's pretty difficult to keep them all out! Generally the chickens natural digestive will clear out the parasites naturally in small numbers. It's when they are on top of each other and reinfecting over long periods(more than 6mths/4mths for higher risk areas) that they get too many populated in their bodies to cope with.
If you are worried your chickens have worms you can collect some of their faeces and send it off to have a worm count. There are companies on line that will do this and your vet should be able to do this for you.
The bio-yogurt is really, personally, more for replacing gut bacteria. But worming doesn't really effect this, more so with antibiotics when ill. So it's more just a nice treat for them and keeps their natural gut activity up.
I hope this is helpful and if there is anything you are unsure about please dont hesitate to ask!
Worming should ideally be about every 6mths if they are in an enclosed area, but if they have the lay of the land and may go to places where other animals go or may feed on dead animals in any way they should be done at least every 4mths.
The reasons for this:
When you worm, you only kill the worms in their body. Naturally the worms will shed eggs and reproduction spawn through their faeces and some through dead skin cells. If they are being wormed these will be put into the ground area of where ever they are kept during this worming period. It's recommended that you treat the ground if you are in a small holding and remove any passed faeces from their dwelling if possible to reduce reinfection. Some die hards will worm their animals in a special place and then treat the usual place while they are worming, turning the ground and letting it rest, them moving them back once the course is complete. But, you can't be perfect!
It's also to keep vermin down as well, so any rats or mice coming in can't reinfect them as well. wild birds are usually the ones that carry in the spawn and eggs though so it's pretty difficult to keep them all out! Generally the chickens natural digestive will clear out the parasites naturally in small numbers. It's when they are on top of each other and reinfecting over long periods(more than 6mths/4mths for higher risk areas) that they get too many populated in their bodies to cope with.
If you are worried your chickens have worms you can collect some of their faeces and send it off to have a worm count. There are companies on line that will do this and your vet should be able to do this for you.
The bio-yogurt is really, personally, more for replacing gut bacteria. But worming doesn't really effect this, more so with antibiotics when ill. So it's more just a nice treat for them and keeps their natural gut activity up.
I hope this is helpful and if there is anything you are unsure about please dont hesitate to ask!
Aileen
New member
There's a good tip from Tim too, I've used it a couple of times when my chook had a dirty bum which can be indicative of worms.
Scoop a wee drop up, stick in an empty jam jar with some water and swirl about, you may well see some worms floating about in it
I worm every 6 months, just to add that bit in!
Cheeri
Scoop a wee drop up, stick in an empty jam jar with some water and swirl about, you may well see some worms floating about in it
I worm every 6 months, just to add that bit in!
Cheeri
Please don't give your hens yoghurt, they are lactose intollerant. It just makes upset tummies worse! Use a proper probiotic designed for poultry. Net-tex do one, ACV works as one, and Antech do one too. Chickens aren't reared on milk, they are not mammals.
I'm afraid i don't agree with worming birds, if you have room to let them range they build up a natural immunity to worms. If kept in small perminant arks, then worm with a natural wormer such as ACV, this helps to build up a resistance without causing the wormers to become in affective. Far too many chemicals and drugs are used on birds who don't need it, and they build up a resiliance to them so they no longer work.
Good husbandry is the key to worm-free birds, keeping your ground clean and moving them to fresh ground whilst treating used ground with lime. Treating new bought in birds with a chemical wormer to rid them of any parasite burden is exceptable as others may not have such good husbandary as you, but after the initial treatment, a natural immunity is better for the birds. No one really knows if their birds have worms without sending poo samples off, or examining it under a microscope, so you may be giving them a host of chemicals and drugs that they don't need.
JubesX
I'm afraid i don't agree with worming birds, if you have room to let them range they build up a natural immunity to worms. If kept in small perminant arks, then worm with a natural wormer such as ACV, this helps to build up a resistance without causing the wormers to become in affective. Far too many chemicals and drugs are used on birds who don't need it, and they build up a resiliance to them so they no longer work.
Good husbandry is the key to worm-free birds, keeping your ground clean and moving them to fresh ground whilst treating used ground with lime. Treating new bought in birds with a chemical wormer to rid them of any parasite burden is exceptable as others may not have such good husbandary as you, but after the initial treatment, a natural immunity is better for the birds. No one really knows if their birds have worms without sending poo samples off, or examining it under a microscope, so you may be giving them a host of chemicals and drugs that they don't need.
JubesX
Bertie & The Chooks
New member
jubilee said:
You may not know but the cultures in the yogurt turn the lactose into lactic acid. Most cultured dairy products are low in lactose because of this and can be tolerated by those who are lactose intolerant. Also cultures in yogurt may produce the enzyme lactase, which digests lactose.
http://www.exoticpetvet.net/avian/dairy.html
The occasional small amount is not going to make much of a fuss, but not all are the same so do what works for you of course.
I agree with your worming technique, but that wasn't the poster's question.
Thanks for all the info - lots of different opinions there! Actually I wasn't asking so much about the yoghurt (mine don't seem that keen on it either) as the repeat after 3 weeks. My chickens free range most days so I guess worming should be between 2 and 3 times a year....or not at all! I'm all for not giving my chickens any more chemicals than necessary, and they get ACV in their water for 5 (or is it 7?) days at the beginning of each month.
chrismahon
Well-known member
ACV helps with ours but we have found that after the Flubenvet worming egg weights increase 5 -10%. So that's how much the worms eat after they have built up for 6 months, even with ACV. With that weight increase (some mediums go to large) the extra value of the eggs pays for the premix wormer anyway and I'm happy the hens are happy.
My mistake, i thought they were asking how often to worm their birds.And about feeding yoghurt to them.Bertie & The Chooks said:
07 I still maintain that dairy products are not good for poultry, no matter how small the quantity, or if the live cultures have been 'transformed', they are still from a mammal being fed to an avian spieces, not good.
05 Being a public forum, surely it's good to have all opinions? And promoting good husbandry is far better in the control of any parasites than advocating the use of loads of chemicals which have the tendancy to cause resiliance in flocks to the extent where they will no longer work? I believe a much more educated, balanced way of providing information is beneficial.
Sorry, as i said, my mistake. :roll:
JubesXX
Bertie & The Chooks
New member
jubilee said:
silly me...i guess i'm just not as experienced in animal care as you. carry on with your education, i'm all ears.
17 :ugeek:
foxy
Active member
Bertie & The Chooks said:jubilee said:
silly me...i guess i'm just not as experienced in animal care as you. carry on with your education, i'm all ears.
Well in that case you will learn a lot!
I am chuffed that we have someone like Jubes with her depth of experience and practical knowledge supporting our forum. As always I would like to say that everyone's opinion here is respected and very much appreciated irrespective of how experienced they are 17
Bertie & The Chooks
New member
foxy said:Bertie & The Chooks said:silly me...i guess i'm just not as experienced in animal care as you. carry on with your education, i'm all ears.
Well in that case you will learn a lot!
Like i said i'm all ears! i love learning new things especially about animals, hence why i was a Vet Nurse for so many years! I grew up with horses, but chooks are still new in some ways! Just like with any animal there is always 20 ways to deal with something and everyone has their own way of doing things, you just have to be open minded and respectful of other's opinions and experience. educated or not, sometimes commonsense and experience can be just as intelligent... i know some farmers and horse trainers who have never picked up a book in there lives for what they do, but they have vets calling them for advice!
Oh I say, sounds like you have the same sort of background as me Steph, i too was a vet nurse, and then went on to work for a feed company, oringinally as a horse nutritionalist, but then moved on to poultry nutritionalist for nearly 15 years! I too kept horses, breaking and bringing on show hunters and working hunters, still do a bit as a hobby! Animals are the best way of learning common sense, and teaching us humanity and being humble. And it's good to see you are still learning, as i have always said, learning something new everyday is what makes life worth living.
JubesXX
JubesXX
chrismahon
Well-known member
Hi Elmdene,
The premix wormer is Fubenvet in Marriages layers. Works out cheaper than buying Flubenvet and mixing it yourself and less hastle. Drawback is you have limited storage of 3 months and smallest bag is 10kg -treats about 10-15 standard hens.
The premix wormer is Fubenvet in Marriages layers. Works out cheaper than buying Flubenvet and mixing it yourself and less hastle. Drawback is you have limited storage of 3 months and smallest bag is 10kg -treats about 10-15 standard hens.
chrismahon
Well-known member
Few months ago I had a similar discussion and the postee (is that the right term?) ended up buying a 10kg bag of premix and sharing it with another local poultry keeper, so that's an option.
cuwiar
New member
Hello, would just like to resurrect this topic - rather than start a new one - but was wondering if it's a silly question to ask if I should limit the hens free-ranging time when worming? I started wormer in their feed on Saturday and they were free-ranging most of the weekend and Monday as hubby was off work. They haven't eaten as much pellets as they would if they had been kept in (obviously as they got full of seeds, grubs, grass etc). In order to make sure they have the right dosage of wormer should I continue to give the feed after the seven days or have I messed up this worming session?
If I've messed up and they won't have got the full benefit from their wormer how long should I wait before I can give them wormer again?
Yesterday, between three of them over the course of four days they hadn't even eaten 1kg of feed.
Their poos have seemed quite normal, apart from the odd mustardy ones, and no signs of worms in them as far as I can tell.
If I've messed up and they won't have got the full benefit from their wormer how long should I wait before I can give them wormer again?
Yesterday, between three of them over the course of four days they hadn't even eaten 1kg of feed.
Their poos have seemed quite normal, apart from the odd mustardy ones, and no signs of worms in them as far as I can tell.
