Which Hybrids are best for Newbies?

Bramax

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Hi

We are planning to get 4-6 hybrids but we are completely new to chicken keeping and don't know what types to go for. We want good layers, that will be healthy and don't keep going broody. Any suggestions as to what hybrids we should go for?

Many thanks.
 
___ I think most be should layers,different colour egg layers available. More important than type of hybrid is WHERE they come from. There are many places about here selling hybrids(and pricey pure breds) - that are filthy, birds with no water ,dead birds in runs,dead rats,live rats, diseased birds etc --the most important thing is to get HEALTHY birds that have been well cared for--you dont want to risk buying 4 new birds as your first and straight away find they all have respiratory infection or similar. Maybe ,post you area (vaguely) on here and someone maybe able to recommend someone near you?
 
best place to start is with the standard brown hybrid! 4 of them and you will pretty much get 4 eggs a day for the first year! they should be innoculated etc as most come from big hatcheries. but like previous poster says if you say where you are someone can suggest a place to buy them. i get 19 week old brown hybrid layers for £6 in north wales.
 
The best llayers are the Rhode-Rocks (black usually with gold on neck) the common brown types (Warren type) and the White Leghorn types.
The blues and the Sussex types tend to lay fewer eggs but are still good.
Look for healthy hens and get them all from the same place and stock that's been living together.

Average price should be £12.50 - £15 but occasionally you can find them cheaper.
 
i agree with podstable the most important thing is you get them from a decent source so they are healthy. in my area cotswold chickens is a safe bet. they are always healthy from jude and lots of free advice. your pretty safe with hybrids as none of them are known to be very broody and they all lay more eggs than pure bred birds. i would find yourself a reliable place to buy them from and take your pick, its fine to mix them up and choose different ones. they dont have to be the same type to get on. then you have a much more colourful flock!
 
Hi

Thanks for your replies to my post. The chicken house is being delivered today, so now we need the chickens! I live in West Dorset near Bridport. So as suggested in the replies to my post I am now asking if anyone knows of anywhere in my area that sells healthy hybrids?

Many thanks
 
i can thoroughly recommend Chalk Hill Poultry http://www.chalkhillpoultry.co.uk/ - off the road beween Blandford and Salisbury at Martin Down. He sells beautiful birds, very well cared-for, running on grass paddocks. Also they are very friendly people who will give lots of help and advice, before and after you buy from them. Not the cheapest maybe, but you will be able to rely on the quality of their birds and if there were any problems they would help you sort them out. Getting going with chickens is expensive, as you've found no doubt, so geeting cheap birds to start with, when you have comparatively little experience, might turn out to be a false economy. I've had hybrids from them and at present I'm raising a Cream Legbar and a Buff Sussex i bough as 5-week-old chicks and they're just brilliant, beautiful birds.

No hybrid is likely to go broody, they're bred not to. It';s a nice idea to get a mixture, as then the eggs will all be different and you can see who has laid what. I'd say go for younger ones if possible, ie 16-20 weeks and not yet in lay, so they get a few weeks to settle in before starting laying. i think size is important - some, eg Columbian blacktails, are small, neat little birds whilst some can be much larger, and therefore take up more room in your run and house.

Any hybrid should lay well, but be aware this comes at a price - as they are bred to lay intensively in commercial conditions for up to 2 years before being culled, egg laying drops off after this quite sharply and generally they are less long-lived than purebreds and more inclined to egg-laying problems such as soft shells, prolapse or peritonitis in later life. Still a very good choice for starter birds, though, as they are very docile and friendly birds.
Good luck! Please pist some pics, when you get your girls!
 
It would be unusual to find anything other than the Warren types used commercially. The other hybrids are bred much more for home use. Sometimes the Rhode/Rock crosses are used in commercial free range production.
 
Chalk HIll poultry looks lovely, but is about an hour and a half drive away. My OH seems to think it isn't fair on the chickens to transport them that far! Is he right? We have found somewhere nearer, Dobles Poultry near Yeovil, has anyone dealt with them?

Also if we buy hybrids aged between say 16-20 weeks, how long does it take them to settle in and start laying?
 
(Edit- I had to stop in a hurry, couldn't find my post, thought I hadn't clicked Submit,and didn't realise it had got on to page 2 so I wrote it again, below, and then found my first try, see below...)
I'm only a beginner at this!
 
It wouldn't be a problem transporting them that time/distance, so long as you had made suitable boxes to contain them, and you'll have to do this anyway. A 6-bottle-sized cardboard box will hold one hybrid, a 12-bottle- sized box will hold 2 so long as they're from the same pen and know each other - don't put strangers together. Put sheets of newspaper in the bottom of the boxes and a few woodshavings. Cut a row of holes 2ins in diameter along the top of the sides for ventilation and invent a reliable way to hold the flaps of the box shut over the hen. (Avoiding the complications of hens flying around in the car.....) I use an elastic rope round the bottom of the box, ends linked together over the top. Or you could possibly use a cat carrier if it was big enough, ie at least 12 ins from bottom to top for hen to stand up in. Keep the hens cool on the way home, use the aircon if available aor have windows open, they'll probably go to sleep. Have everything ready for them when you get home, (food, water and shade) so they can just quietly explore whilst you watch them. Get some redmite powder before they arrive, and once you've seen them eat and drink and recover a bit, catch them individually and powder them well, under their wings and right into their feathers and up their bums ( probably a 2-person job, this!) in case they've got any unwelcome 'visitors' to your lovely clean henhouse. Also powder the nestboxes and any nooks and crannies in the house, round and under the perches especially. Don't breathe the powder.
If you visit a breeder you haven't heard reports about, it will probably be OK, but be prepared in any case to walk away without buying if you think the runs and housing are dirty and crowded, or if ANY of the pullets in the pen look anything but lively and alert, with nice clean feathers and bright eyes. Examine each hen for mites, injuries, runny eyes or nose, and if any of them are sneezing, leave without them. If you can get all the birds from one pen you'll probably find they settle together more easily than if they come from mixed pens. Ring the breeder beforehand to find out what he hhas in stock, as by this stage of the summer many of his pullets may have been sold already, and you said you want 4-6, possibly of mixed breeds. Do try and get them all in one go, as even a delay of a week will make it difficult to integrate any 'late arrivals' from somewhere else.

Hybrid pullets usually come into lay between 20 and 28 weeks (sort of how long is a piece of string?) 'Puberty' varies greatly and will probably be delayed a bit by the stress of moving to a new place, however kind you are to them, so if you get them young their early laying pattern isn't disturbed. Most likely times are around 22 - 25 weeks in my experience, but 17-18 weeks is not unknown, and I've had 2 recently who went to 28 weeks. Whilst you wait, they have quite a lot of growing to do, which is good to watch, and it's comforting to know that it's actually better for the pullet to delay laying until she's fully mature, rather than starting too young - just like people or other animals. If you get young hens who've started lay, they may actually stop for a week or two whilst they settle in, so you're no better off than waiting for young ones to grow up. They should be on growers pellets when you get them, and after 16 weeks it's OK to put them on layers pellets if you think they won'rt get through a big bag of growers before they lay, though if the breeder offers to sell you a smallish bag of what they've been eating, take it, as ideally they should stay on growers until they begin to lay. Also find out if they've been wormed with Flubenvet, and if so, when, so you know when to do them again (6 months after previous doses.) If not wormed yet, arrange to treat them when you get them home, again part of the settling-in process before they lay.

What fun! It's so exciting, getting new hens. Good luck, and let us know how you get on.
 
A good carrier is a dog crate or anything that lets you see the hens as some sellers won't let you near the stock for risk of bringing in infection so in effect you are buying them unseen. A lot of professional sellers are good people as their business depends on it and they ensure that they sell healthy stock.

If you suspect that the stock offered are not healthy, walk away, there are plenty more sellers around.
 
Chuck said:
some sellers won't let you near the stock for risk of bringing in infection so in effect you are buying them unseen.

If you suspect that the stock offered are not healthy, walk away, there are plenty more sellers around.

i would never consider buying birds I hadn't observed in their run (to see them moving, to judge how lively they were, and to observe the conditions they'd been kept in,) and had the chance to handle and examine. I understand the caution of sellers in not wanting buyers near their birds, but I would want to choose them for myself and all of the places I've ever got birds from have done this as a matter of course. Most hybrids will have been vaccinated against all sorts of potential diseases so are more likely to resist external infection than some purebreds from a small-scale breeder who has too few birds to make vaccination worthwhile, and these 'precious' ones might be more at risk, possibly.

Had you decided how many to get, (bearing in mind that the recommended stocking density for free-range birds is 4 square metres of run/ranging space per large hen?)
 
Hybreds start laying anywhere from 20 to 24 weeks old I like to add a couple of blue egg layers in I have never had any problems with them i have 6 blue layers and get 5 or 6 large blue/green eggs every day since march
 
Thanks for all the advice, being new to this it all seems quite daunting. Will probably get the hens from somewhere more local than Chalk Hill, but will walk away if we're not happy with things where we go.
 
Dobles have up to nine different hybrids, all point of lay in a large barn with a grass paddock and wooded are. You are welcome to go and look.
 
I wouldn't get hybrids myself. They are a commercial bird, innoculated against all nasty diseases and built to lay like mad for 12 months before being despatched and replaced. If you are lucky you will get two years. But their whole system is on overload you will have problems down the line. Another potential problem is they are virus carriers, so if you introduce Pedigrees later on they could be infected.
Start with Pedigrees -Utilty breeds like Light Sussex, Rhode Island Red, White Wyandottes. Practical Poultry this month has a Utility Breed Register by area. Later you can go for fancier breeds. Avoid birds innoculated with the new live viruses (administered in drinking water) as they render the bird a carrier, the virus mutating when transmitted and becoming far more severe.
 
It is not so nice for them to go long distances, but so long as they are offered food and water they should be fine, obvs with a comfy-as-you-can=make-it box
 
chrismahon said:
I wouldn't get hybrids myself. They are a commercial bird, innoculated against all nasty diseases and built to lay like mad for 12 months before being despatched and replaced. If you are lucky you will get two years. But their whole system is on overload you will have problems down the line. Another potential problem is they are virus carriers, so if you introduce Pedigrees later on they could be infected.
Start with Pedigrees -Utilty breeds like Light Sussex, Rhode Island Red, White Wyandottes. Practical Poultry this month has a Utility Breed Register by area. Later you can go for fancier breeds. Avoid birds innoculated with the new live viruses (administered in drinking water) as they render the bird a carrier, the virus mutating when transmitted and becoming far more severe.

This sounds very gloomy to me, and unnecessarily worrying to anyone starting up with their first chickens. Yes, commercially farmed hybrids do get culled at under two years old, but that's because they've lived such an unnaturally pressured life, with extra lighting and special food to squeeze every last egg out of them, often still in cramped caged conditions, or in large barn flocks with attendant stress. When they slow down, they're just disposed of. It is possible to find well-raised, home-bred hybrids who will live happy and healthy lives in a domestic setting. Maybe they won't go on quite so long as some purebreds, but that is because they do have the breeding to lay really well, if their specialist feeding needs are met, thus using up their potential egg numbers that much sooner. That is, after all, what most people hope their first-time chickens will do. I think you'd be very unlucky not to get at least two good years from a well-bred hybrid, rather than expecting the worst after such a short life. They are docile, friendly, hardy, attractive birds, come in all sorts of shapes and colours, and have real personalities. I do feel that ex-batt hybrids are not the best choice for first-time chicken keepers, because through no fault of their own their best days are over before they reach their new home, and this could be disappointing when they inevitably start laying soft eggs, getting peritonitis etc. Also the change of environment to an outdoor life can set off health and immunity problems But hybrids that have been carefully sourced, been well looked after, and not overstretched, will be rewarding to keep for several years. Many of them are specifically bred for the domestic market, rather than for intensive production, and a little research online will enable anyone to discover which breeds are best for a non- commercial setting. And when they get past laying, we just have to recognise that chickens are not, on the whole, very long-lived, and give them the end we'd probably like for ourselves, rather than lingering too long when their time is up.
 

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