Top Mistakes That Delay Egg Laying in Young Pullets

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Babatee126

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If your pullets are taking longer than expected to lay their first egg, you’re not alone! I’ve been there—watching, waiting, and wondering, "Did I do something wrong?" The truth is, several common mistakes can delay egg laying in young hens. The good news? Most of them are easy to fix. So let’s break down the biggest culprits holding back your girls from laying and what you can do about it.

1.​

This is probably the number one reason young pullets don’t start laying on time. If they’re still on starter or grower feed past 16–18 weeks, their bodies won’t get the right nutrients to support egg production. Layer feed contains extra calcium and protein to help build strong eggshells and support the laying process.

Fix it: Once your pullets hit 16 weeks or start showing signs they’re close to laying (like squatting or exploring nest boxes), start mixing in layer feed. Don’t forget to offer crushed oyster shells separately for calcium boosts.

2.​

Pullets need about 14 to 16 hours of light daily to stimulate their reproductive cycle. In the fall or winter, natural daylight might not be enough, especially if you live farther from the equator.

Fix it: Add a timer and a soft white bulb in the coop to give your girls the daylight boost they need. But keep it gentle—aim for soft morning light rather than harsh nighttime glare.

3.​

Stress is a silent egg-layer killer. Loud noises, constant predator threats, overcrowding, sudden changes in environment, or even being handled too much can mess with a pullet's laying timeline.

Fix it: Keep their environment calm and predictable. Give them enough space (at least 4 square feet per bird inside and 10 outside), and make sure the coop feels safe. Add a few hiding spots or perches where they can relax.

4.​

Too hot, too cold, too noisy, too dark—if the coop isn’t comfortable, they won’t feel safe enough to lay. Nest boxes that are dirty, poorly placed, or overcrowded also discourage laying.

Fix it: Keep things clean, dry, and draft-free. Make sure your nest boxes are private, cozy, and at least one for every 3-4 hens. Use soft bedding like straw or shavings, and check regularly for signs of mites or moisture.

5.​

Not all breeds mature at the same pace. While Golden Comets and ISA Browns might lay as early as 16 weeks, heritage breeds like Orpingtons or Brahmas can take up to 28 weeks or more.

Fix it: Double-check your breed's average laying age. You can use these helpful guides I wrote:

Patience really is key with certain breeds!

6.​

Okay, this one’s not technically a delay—but it sure feels like one! Sometimes your pullets are already laying but have found their own "secret" spot. Think under bushes, behind the coop, or in that one corner of the run you never check.

Fix it: Keep them in the coop until mid-morning, when most hens lay. You can also put fake eggs in the nesting boxes to give them the idea. If you do find a hidden clutch, be sure to clean it out quickly before bad habits form.

7.​

Scraps and snacks are fun, but too many treats (especially low-protein ones like corn or bread) can throw off your pullets' diet.

Fix it: Stick to the 90/10 rule—90% balanced feed, 10% treats. Healthy extras like mealworms or scrambled eggs are better than empty-calorie grains.

Final Thoughts: Don’t Panic, Just Adjust​

Waiting for those first eggs is exciting and sometimes frustrating. But don’t worry—your pullets are probably right on track. Just watch their behavior, give them the right care, and stay patient.

And when that first egg finally shows up? It’ll be worth the wait—promise!

Got questions or want to share your own egg-laying story? Drop a comment or tag me in the forum. Let’s help each other out, one egg at a time!
 
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Some good points there, but unfortunately some that should be disregarded. Points 3 and 4- hens want to lay somewhere fit to hatch chicks basically. To add security to the nest boxes we fit curtains made from rubber car pats cut to create strips which are thin enough to be parted easily. These need to be tied back initially otherwise they won't find the nest boxes.
Point 1. Pullets will lay when ready and they are best not rushed. If they lay too soon when insufficiently developed it will exhaust them sooner and the physical effort could reduce their lifespan. If you are running a commercial flock you won't be bothered with their wellbeing of course. Switching from the best growth feed too early is pointless and we only switch to layers when the first egg has been laid and not suddenly- mix the old and new together and phase out the old. Calcium for the egg shells doesn't come directly from the feed. It is taken up and stored in the bones and then released. An essential element for this transfer mechanism is phosphorous. In the pellets the Calcium to Phosphorous ratio is balance correctly at 8:1. Adding extra Calcium to their diet in the for of Oyster shell grit will be completely unnecessary and could be counter-productive, upsetting the balance and therefore creating poor quality egg shells!

Point 2. They will lay with far less daylight than that per day, but will lay less frequently because it is the total exposure time that produces an egg. Forcing them to produce with artificial light is one for the commercial producers and will weaken the birds. The key point is the need to produce vitamin D, another element in the Calcium transfer process and that is produced by natural sunlight entering the eye.

Point 7 is good advice. Overfeeding treats reduces their % protein intake, so they fill themselves up but with with a reduced protein amount, unless you supplement the treat with sunflower hearts, which has a very high content (hence expensive). Reducing their protein intake from 16% down to 8% will actually stop them laying altogether (and is a useful way of dealing with a prolapse.)

Point 6. If they free range it is a good idea to keep them in a run attached to the coop for half an hour or so before letting them out. They will therefore eat proper food and not fill up on vegetation, which will lead to them not laying as it has little protein. Eating insects is great, but unless they have a huge area to range in the insects will quickly run out.

Mentioned in point 4. The ratio of hens to nest boxes depends to some extent on the breeds and frequency of laying. We have 5 hybrids and almost daily they fight over 3 nest boxes to the extent that one had found another unused coop to lay in, so one box for 3-4 hens is hopeless, will lead to fighting, eggs laid elsewhere, broken eggs and potentially egg eating, which is a disaster. Think it through- if all your hens want to lay in the first two hours in the morning (ours in the first hour) and each might be in there an hour, so that's 1 nest box for two hens maximum. We get 5 eggs a day from 5 hens and have done since they arrived. Pure breeds you may get 3 from 5, but in my experience they want to be in the nest box all morning.
 
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