safe wood preservers!

jacqfrost

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Once i have finally found the right coop and run, which wood preservers would you recommend? Is Cuprinol garden shades safe to use. Also what about cuprinol ducksback? anyone used either of these?

Do you apply then them to both interior and exterior?
How long would you suggest allowing it to dry before using it for the hens?

thanks
 
Had you thought of getting a second- hand plastic coop?
No need ever to mess about with wood preservers, much easier to keep clean, very little risk of redmite, and will last for ever, unlike any bit the most expensive wooden ones. The Grren Froog ones are good and there are some other good ones as well.
Sorry, this doesn't answer your question, but I just wondered if you had thought along these lines.
 
Think green frog is the best plastic coop, from what I've read Jacqfrost. We have gone wooden with creosote because I build all of ours and do a lot of modifications. Coat of creosote:paraffin at 50:50 on the inside AFTER doing the outside with two coats of Cuprinol Shades. The wood I buy is already treated anyway with a water based preservative immersion. And we have a spare coop for the annual re-treatment. If you have one coop only I'd go green frog plastic.
 
Have just renovated a 40 year old shed, and painted it in ducksback, brilliant, everyone says "nice new shed"!
I know everyone has their own tastes, but how chickens could cope in plastic I do not know, especially in this weather. You can always insulate very cheaply in freezing weather, i.e. apex shaped (with parcel tape) in my case, insulation blocks, but can you cool or de-moisturize plastic?.
My feathery bodies cope with well enough in wood, but chicks do exude a lot of moisture in the night with their roosting, and I have heard reports of plastic houses running in moisture, which doesn't surprise me at all.
Just a few negative thoughts to go with the positive.
Whatever you decide, recommend "ducksback".
 
I use sandolins in natural oak, gives a lovely and durable finish. I don't paint the inside of the house as the wood needs to breathe. I do give the floor a coat of white paint and paint the ends of the perches so that if redmite attacks I will spot them immediately. I do love my wooden housing and all mine are adapted playhouses or large shed for brooding. Most of the plastic housing would just be a bit small for my large faverolles and brahmas! :D

Saying that I am quite taken with this one from green frog designs and am thinking of replacing one of our wooden houses with one...in blue? :D

http://www.greenfrogdesigns.co.uk/Chicken-Wagon-p/cw01.htm
 
Very posh that is too Foxy. Plastic coops may need wiping out in winter in the morning. We get condensation on the roof of our coops sometimes because they are gloss painted white. They can't breathe anyway because the outside is felt.

One thing I am certain of is over here our chickens would cook in one. Can't say I am entirely happy with the appearance but the idea of just jet washing it down certainly does appeal. Solid wheels can be difficult to move on any slightly uneven ground unless you have a sit-on mower you can hitch it up to.
 
valeriebutterley said:
Have just renovated a 40 year old shed, and painted it in ducksback, brilliant, everyone says "nice new shed"!
I know everyone has their own tastes, but how chickens could cope in plastic I do not know, especially in this weather. You can always insulate very cheaply in freezing weather, i.e. apex shaped (with parcel tape) in my case, insulation blocks, but can you cool or de-moisturize plastic?.
My feathery bodies cope with well enough in wood, but chicks do exude a lot of moisture in the night with their roosting, and I have heard reports of plastic houses running in moisture, which doesn't surprise me at all.
Just a few negative thoughts to go with the positive.
Whatever you decide, recommend "ducksback".

We thrashed this one out at length in a 9-page thread a while ago, here http://poultrykeeperforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=5388&hilit=Condensation+in+coops&start=0
where we compared condensation problems in wooden as opposed to plastic coops. I think the outcome was that really good ventilation is a 'must,' in whatever sort of coop you get, and that chickens do not need coddling or keeping warm, just dry shelter at night and plenty of air. You might find the thread interesting. I can only say I've never had condensation in my Green Frog, but I do leave the pophole open all the time at night, winter and summer, plus all the ventilators. I've also never had any respiratory diseases in any of my chickens. As for heat, there were tests done of the temperature inside a Green Frog in full summer sunshine , and outside as well, and it was cooler inside than out. I think how hot the coop gets inside depends more on where it is placed than on what its made of- it helps greatly if it can be in shade, and then the birds can get underneath it as well when they need to.
 
foxy said:
I use sandolins in natural oak, gives a lovely and durable finish. I don't paint the inside of the house as the wood needs to breathe. I do give the floor a coat of white paint and paint the ends of the perches so that if redmite attacks I will spot them immediately. I do love my wooden housing and all mine are adapted playhouses or large shed for brooding. Most of the plastic housing would just be a bit small for my large faverolles and brahmas! :D

Saying that I am quite taken with this one from green frog designs and am thinking of replacing one of our wooden houses with one...in blue? :D

http://www.greenfrogdesigns.co.uk/Chicken-Wagon-p/cw01.htm

That's pretty pricy for a 6-7 bird house, Foxy. The smaller Chicken Lodges hold more birds and are much less expensive.
 
I use Burgess Marine Clearsealer for my wooden ark. I sand and then give it 2 coats which seems to last for about 6 months before needs another coat. It's water based, non toxic and you can paint it on when wood is wet! I've had no issues with fumes and the chooks find it highly amusing watching me paint it on - gave it the summer spruce up yesterday. It takes minutes to dry in this weather and does the job perfectly. I only varnish the outside, mainly as I want the rough wood on the inside of the ark to allow the diatom to cling better to the wood against red mite.
My ark is made of per treated wood (dunked not painted on) so not sure if it would work the same way if it was a Chinese import type house which are only paint treated wood?
 
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