Please can anyone help me? I only wanted a few bantams to give us a little supply of eggs but I am not having much success despite being very vigilant about hygiene etc etc. I started with two black Orpington bantams, I didn't know exactly how old they were and after a couple of months of regular laying, they both stopped over the summer so I bought another, a gold birchen. The two original black girls died suddenly and overnight within a month of each other without ever laying again but the gold birchen seemed fine. I recently purchased another three bantams but this morning one died within an hour of me getting them up for breakfast and now another is in a cat carrier in the garage because she is showing gasping signs and sounds like she has flu! Oddly, one of her eyes keep shutting, I don't know whether this is a symptom/problem! Now I am back to two, the gold birchen who seems as fit as a flea and has just started laying and the remaining black little girl. I have an Omlet Eglu which I took apart this morning and scrubbed clean just for my peace of mind. If anyone can help me I would be very grateful.
Mystery Orpington bantam deaths......
- Thread starter BeckyT
- Start date
VALBURNHAM
New member
my guess would be respritory infection that need abs from the vets. Have your wormed them at all yet there is a worm called gap worm which can cuase gasping symptoms. If you think its worms it needs to be treated with Flubenvet. Another option is red mite do you treat your house regularly for red mite and have you seen any sign of any.
chrismahon
Well-known member
As Val says, it sounds like a respiratory infection, possibly caused by lack of ventillation or wet bedding. The alternative is Infectious Bronchitis, brought in by the Gold Birchen who is a carrier and so has had the disease but is now immune. As you say the original blacks could have been the same old age and just stopped laying due to that. So my guess is IB, but until the vet has confirmed it you don't know for certain. I wouldn't get any more hens until the GB has gone and everything has been thoroughly disinfected though.
Thank you for your replies. I did worm all the bantams last week so I cannot think that it is a worm infestation and I tend to go with the infectious bronchitis. Having had a good look at her tonight, it is like she has a bad cold, her nose is runny (if that is possible!) and she is very wheezy. Possibly the gold birchen is the carrier as she has lived through all the deaths so far and is looking fabulous and healthy but (touches wood) I hope the remaining black little makes it, she is looking very healthy too at the moment. The sick little bird is still alive though in the cat carrier in the garage so if she makes it until Tuesday I will try and get her to a suitable vet.
If anyone else has any more possible answers I would love to hear them.
If anyone else has any more possible answers I would love to hear them.
chrismahon
Well-known member
Hope you get it sorted Becky. We've had IB in some of our flocks, but it was only the immunisation strain from imported hybrids and we didn't lose any -they were very ill for a while though, because they caught ILT at the same time from the same source. Just make sure she is drinking.
When our hens caught it so did we. Very mild symptoms though. Apparently people in contact with it develop antibodies, which is how they know you have caught it. Part of Avian Flu research which I discovered when I trolled through endless papers and stuff looking for details of ILT and IB 3 years ago.
When our hens caught it so did we. Very mild symptoms though. Apparently people in contact with it develop antibodies, which is how they know you have caught it. Part of Avian Flu research which I discovered when I trolled through endless papers and stuff looking for details of ILT and IB 3 years ago.
OK, the poorly chicken is still alive! She isn't looking very well but she is eating and drinking. This sounds funny but her beak looks as though it is shedding and her eyes are a bit sticky. Don't know whether this changes the diagnosis so far?!
I wormed her with Verm-X - it is a chemical free wormer for internal parasites.
Do you think I am being cruel by keeping the sickly chicked alive?
I wormed her with Verm-X - it is a chemical free wormer for internal parasites.
Do you think I am being cruel by keeping the sickly chicked alive?
cuwiar
New member
Hi BeckyT, Verm-X won't be sufficient if they have a worm infestation, it only works as an interim deterrent. You will need to get hold of some Flubenvet which you can buy in powder form to mix with your own feed or you can buy pre-mixed pellets made by Marriages.
I'm sure other people on the forum will be able to give more info but as no-one has replied as yet I think you need to get some proper, 'chemical' wormer in them as soon as possible.
If there is a Farm and Pet Place near you, you can buy either the powder or the pre-mix pellets from there - or you will need to give your vet a ring.
I'm sure other people on the forum will be able to give more info but as no-one has replied as yet I think you need to get some proper, 'chemical' wormer in them as soon as possible.
If there is a Farm and Pet Place near you, you can buy either the powder or the pre-mix pellets from there - or you will need to give your vet a ring.
I agree with Cuwiar - except to say that, if indeed she and the others have severe worm infestation it would be better to get the Flubenvet powder and make up a very palatable mix with pellets + sunflower seeds + dried mealworms if possible, maybe soaking the mixture with water to make it damp and crumbly as this is more attractive to most chickens and you'll be sure to get enough into her/them. You mix the Flubenvet according to the instructions with the stated dose in a kilo of dry food. Add enough cod liver oil, or vegetable oil will do, to the pellets, enough to coat them lightly when well stirred, so the pellets are coated with the oil and the Flubenvet powder will stick to them evenly when you mix it in. You need to give a 7-day course and during this time you shouldn't give anything to eat except the treated pellets, to ensure they don't fill up on other untreated foods and not get their full dose according to appetite.
The other symptoms she is showing may be due to something else, because if a bird has a heavy worm infestation her immune system will be lowered and she will be more likely to go down with another problem as well. Your vet would advise you about this.
Vermex is quite useful as a toner for the gut and it claims to improve a chicken's resistance to worms, but does not eradicate them once they are present. You need to give Flubenvet twice a year to all your birds, every 6 months, even if they don't show symptoms, as once they get to the stage where worms are obviously pulling them down the infestation will be very heavy and affecting them badly. They get worm eggs from pecking on ground where the eggs have passed through the droppings of other chickens, or else by eating earthworms or slugs which are hosts to several types of chicken worms. (So don't give earthworms as a treat, however much your birds enjoy them!) The eggs hatch in the chicken's gut, and the resultant worms take nourishment from her so she gradually goes downhill and weakens. The worms lay new eggs which pass out in her droppings to continue the cycle. Another good reason for keeping their runs as clean as possible by regular poo picking!
If your bird was mine, I would definitely get them all wormed, especially since you don't know much about where they came from or whether they had ever been wormed previously. Worms may not be the only cause of their problems but are most probably contributing. If there is also a respiratory infection you'll need a trip to the vet for some antibiotics, and when you're there you can check on the other things you've been advised to find about. Good luck, and keep in touch to let us know how you get on.
PS Read more about Flubenvet on the Forum at http://poultrykeeper.com/poultry-medication/poultry-medication/flubenvet-used-for-worming.html
The other symptoms she is showing may be due to something else, because if a bird has a heavy worm infestation her immune system will be lowered and she will be more likely to go down with another problem as well. Your vet would advise you about this.
Vermex is quite useful as a toner for the gut and it claims to improve a chicken's resistance to worms, but does not eradicate them once they are present. You need to give Flubenvet twice a year to all your birds, every 6 months, even if they don't show symptoms, as once they get to the stage where worms are obviously pulling them down the infestation will be very heavy and affecting them badly. They get worm eggs from pecking on ground where the eggs have passed through the droppings of other chickens, or else by eating earthworms or slugs which are hosts to several types of chicken worms. (So don't give earthworms as a treat, however much your birds enjoy them!) The eggs hatch in the chicken's gut, and the resultant worms take nourishment from her so she gradually goes downhill and weakens. The worms lay new eggs which pass out in her droppings to continue the cycle. Another good reason for keeping their runs as clean as possible by regular poo picking!
If your bird was mine, I would definitely get them all wormed, especially since you don't know much about where they came from or whether they had ever been wormed previously. Worms may not be the only cause of their problems but are most probably contributing. If there is also a respiratory infection you'll need a trip to the vet for some antibiotics, and when you're there you can check on the other things you've been advised to find about. Good luck, and keep in touch to let us know how you get on.
PS Read more about Flubenvet on the Forum at http://poultrykeeper.com/poultry-medication/poultry-medication/flubenvet-used-for-worming.html
mollteaser
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I have to admit I was a verm-x user, and against chemical wormers, until I wiped a curry poop off the patio that was writhing with.worms
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I used flubenvet as prescribed now...
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I used flubenvet as prescribed now...
chrismahon
Well-known member
Hi Becky. 'Shedding beak' could be dried runny nose that is peeling off. Otherwise it is a nuitrient deficiency that may be caused by bad diet or worm infestation. When you give Flubenvet mix it with a little cod liver oil to make a runny paste. The cod liver oil will help her in my experience -seems to sort quite a few problems. Sticky eyes comes with IB. As Marigold says heavy worm burden makes them susceptable to infections.
On Mollteasers point, perhaps curry powder is a more effective wormer than Vermex?!
On Mollteasers point, perhaps curry powder is a more effective wormer than Vermex?!
mollteaser
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You know the ones I mean...the 1 in 10 yellow stinkers..caecal poos, I think the technical term is...but look like korma sauce, and smell shocking!
foxy
Active member
Becky is it possible for you to load a photo of her face and beak?
Thank you so much for your useful comments. I will go and get some correct worming fluid tomorrow and treat them all immediately. My chickens are able to free roam the garden for at least a couple of hours each day - do you think this is where they could have picked up some infestation? Is there anything I should keep them away from? They are all very young bantams too, one has just started laying in the last week and the others aren't due to start laying until at least February.
The little one in the garage seems to be improving. I am still not even considering putting her back with the other two yet but with every hour that passes, she seems a little better. Let's hope this continues.
Thank you again and I will most certainly keep this forum updated of progress.
The little one in the garage seems to be improving. I am still not even considering putting her back with the other two yet but with every hour that passes, she seems a little better. Let's hope this continues.
Thank you again and I will most certainly keep this forum updated of progress.
That's the reason I asked what did you use. It's about time people realised that Verm X will not kill worms, neither does it prevent them. For get interim treatment, forget gut toner, just forget Verm X !
If Flubenvet is supposed to be fed dry Marigold, why are you advocating mixing water and/or oil with the feed ? We are badly in need of an effextive wormer which can be put in the water.
If Flubenvet is supposed to be fed dry Marigold, why are you advocating mixing water and/or oil with the feed ? We are badly in need of an effextive wormer which can be put in the water.
chrismahon
Well-known member
Just to add about oil and Flubenvet. The Flubenvet web page suggests that getting it to stick to feed is a problem; that is certainly my experience. They suggest adding a little olive or cod liver oil to the measure of Flubenvet and mix to form a creamy paste. Then add the paste to the small measure of feed, add that to a larger measure and so on, as instructed. I've tried this and it makes the whole process of mixing far easier and safer as inhaling the Flubenvet powder makes you ill -I've done it.
cuwiar
New member
Hi, I haven't been able to find a specific website for Flubenvet but I have been on the Jansenn Animal Health page (they market Flubnvet) and asked this question:
If possible I would appreciate some additional information and recommendatons for the above product (Flubenvet).
1) Is there a recommended daily amount per chicken ie dependant on body weight to ensure maximum results over the 7 day medication period?
2) To ensure each chicken recieves this recommended amount is it possible to add it to small amounts of 'desirable' feed/treats and give this twice a day rather than allow them to eat over the course of the day in their 'regular' feed?
I only have three chickens and am keen to ensure they get the maximum benefit from this medication and I am concerned that some may not get their daily dose based on the instructions provided with the product.
Any additional guidance would be apreciated.
I hope to hear from you in due course.
This was their answer:
Thank you for your enquiry regarding our product Flubenvet 1%.
Please find attached a leaflet giving information on administering Flubenvet and general worming in chickens, which should answer your questions below; but to help clarify these further:
1) Each chicken will eat the food it needs for its body weight, so bigger birds will consume more of the medication than smaller birds, but with the food, they will take in enough wormer; therefore it is important to mix the food and the medication evenly and as described on the information
provided. Great variation between intensive and extensive systems and great variation according to breed and purpose (layers or broilers) but a chicken will consume approximately 100-120g of food per day.
2) To ensure each chicken receives the required amount of the medicated mixture, this should be the only food offered during the 7 day treatment period.
If I can be of any further assistance please do not hesitate to contact me.
Regards
Tina
(See attached file: FLUB DL.pdf)
Tina Pollard VN
Technical Advisor-Companion Animals
Elanco CA Veterinary Educational & Technical Services
Tel: +44 (0)1256 779956
Fax: +44 (0)1256 779508
Mob: +44 (0)7730207265
Email: [email protected]; [email protected]
I don't seem to be able to attach the PDF leaflet I was sent but it doesn't say anything in there about adding oil, the only place I have seen this recommended is on the following website:
http://keeping-chickens.me.uk/what-to-keep-in-stock/flubenvet
A great website but not a 'professional' opinion.
Here's the listing for Flubenvet from the NOAH Compendium:
http://www.noahcompendium.co.uk/Elanco_Animal_Health/Flubenvet_1__ACU-_Medicated_Premixture/-33869.html
I hope this is of some help. It doesn't tell us a lot that we don't already seem to know but it's good to have it from the Horses/Chickens(?) mouth!
Will keep trying to figure out what I need to do to attach the PDF.
If possible I would appreciate some additional information and recommendatons for the above product (Flubenvet).
1) Is there a recommended daily amount per chicken ie dependant on body weight to ensure maximum results over the 7 day medication period?
2) To ensure each chicken recieves this recommended amount is it possible to add it to small amounts of 'desirable' feed/treats and give this twice a day rather than allow them to eat over the course of the day in their 'regular' feed?
I only have three chickens and am keen to ensure they get the maximum benefit from this medication and I am concerned that some may not get their daily dose based on the instructions provided with the product.
Any additional guidance would be apreciated.
I hope to hear from you in due course.
This was their answer:
Thank you for your enquiry regarding our product Flubenvet 1%.
Please find attached a leaflet giving information on administering Flubenvet and general worming in chickens, which should answer your questions below; but to help clarify these further:
1) Each chicken will eat the food it needs for its body weight, so bigger birds will consume more of the medication than smaller birds, but with the food, they will take in enough wormer; therefore it is important to mix the food and the medication evenly and as described on the information
provided. Great variation between intensive and extensive systems and great variation according to breed and purpose (layers or broilers) but a chicken will consume approximately 100-120g of food per day.
2) To ensure each chicken receives the required amount of the medicated mixture, this should be the only food offered during the 7 day treatment period.
If I can be of any further assistance please do not hesitate to contact me.
Regards
Tina
(See attached file: FLUB DL.pdf)
Tina Pollard VN
Technical Advisor-Companion Animals
Elanco CA Veterinary Educational & Technical Services
Tel: +44 (0)1256 779956
Fax: +44 (0)1256 779508
Mob: +44 (0)7730207265
Email: [email protected]; [email protected]
I don't seem to be able to attach the PDF leaflet I was sent but it doesn't say anything in there about adding oil, the only place I have seen this recommended is on the following website:
http://keeping-chickens.me.uk/what-to-keep-in-stock/flubenvet
A great website but not a 'professional' opinion.
Here's the listing for Flubenvet from the NOAH Compendium:
http://www.noahcompendium.co.uk/Elanco_Animal_Health/Flubenvet_1__ACU-_Medicated_Premixture/-33869.html
I hope this is of some help. It doesn't tell us a lot that we don't already seem to know but it's good to have it from the Horses/Chickens(?) mouth!
Will keep trying to figure out what I need to do to attach the PDF.
cuwiar
New member
Sorry to go 'off topic'!!
Becky - chickens get worms - end of! They come from the little beasties they eat in and around the garden/land/orchard etc. and are just part and parcel of poultry keeping.BeckyT said:
Worming them with the proper 'stuff' i.e. Flubenvet is really the best way to keep the worm burden at a minimum. They excrete worm eggs and then they are ingested again by other birds as they peck around on the ground! Keeping chickens in static runs (some of us have no option) makes it even more important that the birds are wormed regularly.
The problem is, unless the worm burden is high, you probably won't see evidence of worms.
