Does anyone know about dosage of Ivermectin/harkomectin for the controll of red mite. I've just recently got on top of an infestation in my 2nd coop (sorted now, and dont need to use it for another few months). I have only 2 hens now, as two old ladies died recently. They live in another coop. Of the remaining hens, one lays the other doesnt. I dosed the non layer with 3 drops a week over 2 weeks. The layer, 3 drops for one week. Then withdrew egg consumption for two weeks to be safe. I am about to clean out their coop again and re spray for mite etc. And I can see that there is some red mite where they nest. Question- is it safe to give a full dose in one week, rather than over two or three weeks? The latter means egg withdrawal for a month, as 7 day withdrawal is mandatory.
Ivermectin/Harkomectin
- Thread starter Roisin
- Start date
Wrigley62
New member
Hi Roisin,
I'm sorry, I myself have had NO experience with red mites or how to get rid of them.
I am sure someone with more experience than myself will be along to give you some advice.
Good luck,
Wrigley
I'm sorry, I myself have had NO experience with red mites or how to get rid of them.
I am sure someone with more experience than myself will be along to give you some advice.
Good luck,
Wrigley
I think the answer depends on exactly what/which brand of Ivermectin you are using. If it's the pigeon one, I have always dosed three drops for bantams, five drops for LF and done it once (withdrawal of eggs for 10 days) and then re-dosed them four or so months later. The use of Ivermectin shouldn't be used for the control of red mite per se.
I am very wary of this ' dose this for x # of weeks'. It's hard on their systems, in my opinion, so it would be better to get on top of the red mite as much as you possibly can, using some form of insecticide spray, and then keep your birds dusted with a pymethrin based powder - or DE (not something I am in favour of, but think I am in the minority here) on a weekly basis.
Don't forget - if you're spraying something on the coop sides which is supposed to have an ongoing effect on red mite - don't go washing the coop! You'll wash all the 'stuff' off! Use a dry powder of some sort in between times of treating the house with insecticide spray.
I am very wary of this ' dose this for x # of weeks'. It's hard on their systems, in my opinion, so it would be better to get on top of the red mite as much as you possibly can, using some form of insecticide spray, and then keep your birds dusted with a pymethrin based powder - or DE (not something I am in favour of, but think I am in the minority here) on a weekly basis.
Don't forget - if you're spraying something on the coop sides which is supposed to have an ongoing effect on red mite - don't go washing the coop! You'll wash all the 'stuff' off! Use a dry powder of some sort in between times of treating the house with insecticide spray.
foxy
Active member
I agree with Philcott, and although redmite is a real challenge, treating the house aggressively is the best option, e.g. 2 pronged approach, dosing with a good insecticide, and repeating every 5 days to break the egg cycle. I use this method then paint the nooks and crannies with a diatom slurry (diatom mixed with washing up liquid and water to get the right consistency)
Follow the instructions carefully to the letter with any insecticide, in order to gain the most benefit otherwise leaving a few stragglers will result in the mite building up resistance for future generations.
Just a footnote really, in an infestation of redmite the physiological effects on a bird can last a couple of months after clearing the house of redmite, so a good diet at this stage, and reducing stress will help the bird recover.
I have heard that garlic cloves in their water can act as a deterrent to the redmite owing to the flavour, it is true that high doses of garlic will certainly taint eggs so this might be worth a try instead of Ivermectin? Garlic certainly won't do any harm and there are health benefits associated with them.
Follow the instructions carefully to the letter with any insecticide, in order to gain the most benefit otherwise leaving a few stragglers will result in the mite building up resistance for future generations.
Just a footnote really, in an infestation of redmite the physiological effects on a bird can last a couple of months after clearing the house of redmite, so a good diet at this stage, and reducing stress will help the bird recover.
I have heard that garlic cloves in their water can act as a deterrent to the redmite owing to the flavour, it is true that high doses of garlic will certainly taint eggs so this might be worth a try instead of Ivermectin? Garlic certainly won't do any harm and there are health benefits associated with them.
Thanks all for the info. I am using the Pigeon sort of Ivermectin. I have just finished my third treatment of the coop and it appearst to be sorted but you never know. First treatment Jeyes fluid followed by Johnsons poultry housing spray. The next two treatments using Nettex Red Mite spray which I found quite good. Birds dusted within an inch of their lives with pyrethrin based powder. One question Philcott - if you put a slurry of Diatom/washing up liquid into the nooks and crannies, dont you have to wash it out again? Wont this wash off the insecticide (Nettex) that Ive applied? (And I will dust floor and perches with Diatom. Am not a great believe in it either though, have used it before with limited effectiveness...)
