Help needed with old octagon

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Hi I am new to hatching eggs and was given an incubator from friend but had no instructions, it is a Brinsea Octagon 20 mk11 with auto turn .This is an old model with fan,
Can anyone advise me about this model and how to use it correctly.
ive followed some instructions of a newer model from the brinsea web site but still have not achived a live hatch- dead in shell.
I was hoping that someone out there may have used this model over the years and be kind enough to give me some tips/instructions.
 
I have used the Octagon 20DX for a couple of years - they are very good machines. I have the manual for this as a pdf if you would like it.

It might not be your incubation - can you be sure that others are getting a good consistent hatch rate from these eggs? It could be incorrect egg storage or in-breeding problems. As people work on their strain of birds, they usually practice quite close breeding but after a while, sometimes hatchability becomes a problem so they have to introduce new blood into the line in order to improve hatch rate.

To get specific traits, and breed out other traits it's necessary to breed closely and you wouldn't want to breed with an unrelated cockerel as you will introduce other traits from him that may be hidden.... that said, to get eggs that will hatch, you want the bloodlines to be as unrealated as possible.

There's an incubation trouble shooting guide on the main site that suggests a few other things too. Humidity is a big factor - you do need to check your hygrometer is accurate, if it is a little white plastic dial, they are notoriously inaccurate. The wet bulb hygrometer is the best I find.

Good luck and let us know how you get on,

Tim
 
Thanks for the reply,
The 20dx is the instructions that i have followed as they are very similar.
As for humidity , i bought a small round digital hydrometer/thermometer from ebay that you can get for £10-£15, It sits on the bottom next to eggs. The temp seems very close to my mercury thermometer but i do not know how acurrate the humidity reading is.
As for egg these are also via post as i do not have cockrels at home- so i know this is luck of the draw .

I read on this forum about running with no water for 18 days and them only filling one channel for the last hatching days.Have you tried this? do you think it worth a go?
I am determined to have another go and not be beaten, i guess you learn from trial and error
 
The amount of water added to the incubator varies according to the weather, time of year, room the incubator is in and ventillation setting as well as the eggs you have etc so I could have lots of success with an incubator here adding no water, then give the unit to you and you don't have any luck at all using identical settings.

The humidity outside the incubator varies and the air that is drawn in could be high or low in humidity - so not adding water could mean it's just right, or completely wrong. Measuring humidity (or weight loss) is far more accurate.

Each egg needs to lose a certain amount of moisture for a successful hatch - the humidity / amount of moisture in the air determines the rate at which the moisture is lost, so high humidity = low moisture loss from the egg and low humidity = high moisture loss. Think of it like trying to dry your washing on a wet day versus a dry day.

So it's important to get an accurate humidity reading and to be able to maintain a given humidity in the incubator for the eggs to lose a certain amount of moisture (and weight).

The electronic meters are usually accurate - but it's worth cross checking it with a known good hygrometer.

You can make a wet bulb hygrometer. You need 2 thermometers, some wick (available from suppliers of Octagon 20 for the wet bulb thermometer for example) and a little plastic tub of water. Push the wick over the bulb of one thermometer and dip the other end into the water - wait for the reading to settle, this is the wet temperature, then, take the temperature of the other thermometer (dry bulb). There are lots of tables published of wet Vs. Dry temperatures (possibly in your manual) that give the humidity - you can then check your digital meter reading.

With a second thermometer, you can also check your existing thermometer's temperature reading. It's more likely a humidity problem though for dead in shell chicks.

It's worth trying some different eggs too if you've only had eggs from one place. I've had some strains that I can pop into the incubator and hardly look at the settings and I get 70-80% hatch rate with other pure breeds from show lines, I have had all die in the shell.

Poor health in the flock as well as posting eggs could also be the problem. Ideally, find someone local with fertile eggs that aren't from show strains and do a test run.

I'm going on but I hope this is of help ;)

Tim
 
Hi Tim,
Your info was of great use and i can now see clearly the importance of humidity .
ive since borrowed a friends octagon 10 and have been keeping an eye on the airspace.
Its paid off as my very first egg has just hatched - aday early but never the less alive!!
4 more eggs to go , fingers crossed.
They are white bearded silkies- yes you see my plan my future broodies.
Now i feel a litle more knowledgable and armed with candler and scales i will attempt a go in my old incubator.


Thanks for your help
wiltshirehen
 
Great, I'm pleased you're getting some success.

If your chicks hatch early then the temp. is a bit high....

Tim
 
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