Cannibal wyandotte strikes again!!!

[Sue]

Well, I thought I'd solved the problem with my wyandotte who was attacking the sussex (a lot of forum members will remember this ongoing saga!)

I was wrong!

She has been living quite happily with the 'top bird' in a new run and hen house (just the two of them) ever since I made the decision to separate her and put the legbar with her. For the last week or so the legbar has been moulting and I noticed she was losing a lot of feathers around her neck area (as well as elsewhere). This morning it has become clear why she is losing so many feathers around her neck - the dotte is pecking them out. Not only that, but she has now drawn blood. The legbar is just standing and letting her do this! Why is she letting that happen when she is top hen? I am now back to square one with the dotte problem, I don't know what to do now as it is only the two of them. The dotte has been broody for several months now and I have to shut them out of the house every morning and let them in at bedtime. This is fine because the legbar isn't laying at the moment. My dilemma now is what do I do? I can put the dotte in a cage during the day so she can't get to the legbar, but what do I do at night? Is it safe to put them in the house together and separate them again in the morning, or will the dotte carry on pecking her over night? Yet again I find myself having to ask for help from this fantastic forum!

 

[Marigold]

I think Tygrysec's useful link to the Omlet site, about beak bits, in Aileen's post about I've Got a Bully (below) says it all. Nobody likes fitting beak bits, but if the alternative is culling, rehoming, or continued attacks on other birds, when all else has failed, it's worth a go.

 

[foxy]

I think Tygrysec's useful link to the Omlet site, about beak bits, in Aileen's post about I've Got a Bully (below) says it all. Nobody likes fitting beak bits, but if the alternative is culling, rehoming, or continued attacks on other birds, when all else has failed, it's worth a go.

I have heard they are very effective, a temporary measure thats breaks the pecking habit.

 

[Anonymous]

It is quite possible that the wyandotte will peck the other bird to death! I have seen this happen. On the injured bird where blood has been drawn cover the area with a mixture of castor oil mixed with crushed yarrow flowers. This mixture will heal the injured area and make it taste nasty to the "pecker" (pardon the pun). Now that the wyandotte is in the habit of pecking the others, you might never get her to stop. You could try keeping her separate form the others for a period of time and feed her a higher ration of protein. I hope this helps you. Let me know how it turns out. Blessings

 

[VALBURNHAM]

I have a bantam pekin who plucks feathers out of the other hens. Several of them ended up bald, and they used to sit and let her do it. I solved it with anti pecking spray which I reapplied to all the hens every couple of days.

 

[chrismahon]

We had a phase of this and it was sorted with Frontline spray for apparent head lice. They spread very slowly but the half dozen or so hens who got it would even let the ones much lower in the pecking order peck at their heads and necks. The solitary lice are too small and fast for me to see, but it certainly wasn't a case of bullying. I saw one hen watching the neck of another before lunging at it. The other didn't move and appeared to welcome the attention.

Vals problem may have been head lice cured because the lice were co-incidentally killed by the anti-pecking spray.

We've had a problem with a feather pecker, but she was the lowest in order and used to eat the feathers from their fluffy bottoms -Wyandottes. We had a problem with bullying too and self-harm feather pecking -both those had anti-pecking spray to cure it.

So if I am right, fitting a beak bit to your Wyandotte may see the lice spread to her and she will then be pecked by the Legbar. But you haven't really got time to experement so, based on Vals experience, I would try anti-pecking spray first. Johnsons I found too mild for adult birds, OK for chicks. Nettex is good, but the trigger spray units leak and it gets all over your hand, so wrap a piece of kitchen roll around the trigger first.

 

[Chuck]

Net tex anti peck spray works in these situations. Spray plenty on and spray every few days. It has healing properties as well. Why do they pull feathers ? Mainly boredom which turns into a bad habit but in truth no-one really knows. If blood is drawn it makes the situation serious as it can turn much worse quickly and lead to bad injury, even death.
Beak bits can work well though I've only seen them used on pheasants and are removed before they are finally released. They can be used as a temporary measure to break the habit . I can't remember if they are applied with an applicator, if so it could make it quite expensive. They can still peck but can't grip.

I'm afraid I think your hen is a rogue Sue and my advise to you months ago was to re-home her to someone with experience and space - it still applies !

 

[Sue]

I have someone who would take her if it comes to that. She's spending some time in the 'naughty girl' cage at the moment and when I let her out for a run around earlier I saw the legbar tell her off over some food, so that was good. I've since seen her try to peck again, so back in the cage!! It's the moulting that has started this problem! Everything was fine until the legbar started moulding. Does this change the pecking order? I've ordered some beak bits, but don't know whether I'll use them or not as I don't really like the idea. I'll try other methods first.

 

[Chuck]

Yes, sometimes it's the new little feather quills that break trough that they find so attractive, probably because they are filled with blood and juice.

The anti peck spray works for mine.