Building a new run

You need to fit a Bumpa Bit from Omlet. I've taken some photos to explain all about them, because Omlet are useless, but haven't had time to post. It's probably the only thing that will work now. We were faced with this and had to cull 4 top quality Wyandotte hens, simply because after 3 months in isolation they still went for it immediately they got the chance. You need some 'external' circlip pliars as well to fit them. Our mad Molly Legbar has one fitted and is perfectly normal (laying well) except she has stopped pecking the others.
 
chrismahon said:
You need to fit a Bumpa Bit from Omlet. I've taken some photos to explain all about them, because Omlet are useless, but haven't had time to post. It's probably the only thing that will work now. We were faced with this and had to cull 4 top quality Wyandotte hens, simply because after 3 months in isolation they still went for it immediately they got the chance. You need some 'external' circlip pliars as well to fit them. Our mad Molly Legbar has one fitted and is perfectly normal (laying well) except she has stopped pecking the others.
Hmmmm , I've never been a fan of Face piercing , But its going on the final resort list, cheers for the Tip
 
kegs said:
Gentian purple violet which is an antiseptic as well as being bright purple so it will disguise the red cut which chickens are attracted to. Keeping the White star apart from the other two might help and it is a good idea to take the bully rather than taking the one being bullied. If you can keep the apart for a couple of days it may calm the situation down.
I couldn't find any quick, so we've been using detol spray for open wounds ?? The bully is now in 'The Gulag'
 
Bumpa bits are just soft rings, they do not pierce the nostril if you are worried Castara, they are very effective however at preventing/ helping to break the pecking habit. Personally I do not think any spray deterrent at this stage will do much good, as it sounds like quite a bad habit has developed and would be concerned at this point that blood has been drawn. The wounds need to be treated with a gentle antiseptic cream, something like sudacreme or germoline and allowed to heal.

Regarding the Stockholm tar, you will end up with far on you than actually on the bird...but it will in the process be incredibly entertaining for your chickens, I suppose a distraction for them....

What sort of environment did they come from originally Castara, and were they together at that point?
 
They were all bought at the same Place Widgets Farm in Reading , Nice little place , clean and spacious , Friendly Staff and helpful owner .
The 2 Hybrids , where in 1 run, away from the Copper black , who was over in a pen in the pure breeds area. The Lady who owned the placed explaned that a lot of sellers including herself do not breed the hybrids , something to do with licencing and such , A subject for another forum , cause it seemed to me we even by chickens from Europe :-)09 Sigh ! Any way She buys a 1000 chicks from France ,Germany,Holland, and imports them to a Poultry farm (egg producer, makin a bit on the side) who raises them , then at the right age she gets them delivered and I think they go out pretty quick , about a week and shes running out :-)07 , Where as the Copper blacks , I'm not sure ? I know she breeds Pure breeds her self The Copper blacks included , The White Star (villian) looked the most developed followed by the Colombian, both laid first. The Copper black was much younger ( no Comb) and shes only just started to lay "One a day since the white stars away" :-)19
 
That's the other problem Castara. If a hen is stressed she won't lay. We had three we were 'looking after' in a run with three of ours. Our friends hens were nasty and used to bully ours. The day after they left all ours started laying and continued happily thereafter. Must have cost us a lot due to lost egg sales!
 
So, although they came from the same place, they had never met before coming to you as they were in different pens. Also the hybrids had the extra stress of a move to widgets from the grower, and then another move to you. Additionally, White Stars are known for being a bit flighty and independent-minded, so it's not surprising she is having settling in problems. I would give the beak bits a go, lots of people have found they are effective and humane, and if she wears one for a while, she will be growing up herself and may well settle down as she matures. Better than messing them up with nasty gunge that doesn't seem to be working anyway.
 
It funny originally the whit star and the Colombian were best mates and the copper black the outsider , then something changed ? Now its the copper black and the colombian ??? Fickle chickens? I'm hearing alot about the bumper bits but I just dont get how the beak bits dont impair her eating , can she still crack a snail shell? or a sunflower seed or rip grass? I have to say I'm considering it though , as I dont think this isolation for the White Star can be too good , And I'm sure there still talking across the garden ,
 
Ok . Heres my plan, I'm gonna keep the white star in the cooler for a while , till the other 2 heal up. We're applying sudo cream every couple a days.
Hopefully the feathers will grow back soon??? Any thoughts???
Then I think will go for the Stockholm Tar option for a bit , And reintroduce the White Star at night , I'm going to order some beak bumpers just in case.
Oh And I did let the kid out :lol:
 

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If it stopped her eating snails it would be a good thing, as snails slugs and earthworms are hosts to the eggs of chicken worms. I haven't used beak bits on my birds as so far I haven't needed to, but if I had a bad pecking problem I would take the advice of those who had tried them and give them a go. I have heard lots of people say they work, and nobody has said their chicken starved!
Whilst she is separate, it would be best if she could still see the others through the mesh, so not totally out of it.
 
On A lighter note :D , These boredom blocks , although good are rather expensive , And I think with the problems we've had were gonna need a few . so bit a web reserch and I fumbled up a recipe tried them last night
Took about 2 cups a pellets and soaked um , till they was soggy .
Then added some wild bird food (various seeds and peas?)and some regular scratch and some sun flower hearts and a few raisins , .as for proportions just keep adding handfuls and mixing in till it looks like the shop bought ones
The add an egg white and a little plane flour, mixed it all up into a soggy goo , It should be slightly sticky , if it aint you may need another egg white.
Then I got a skewer and bent in double, I can use that again . ( you could use galvinised wire maybe?)
I molded the mix around the skewer on a piece of oiled greased proof paper and warped it up tight , twisting the ends to get it firm .
Then on a bakin tray and in the oven at 200 deg for 15 min , then down to 50 for 1/2 hour ,
Pell the paper off while there still warm and cool over night on a wire rack , They harden off over night.
The bird food was £1 a big bag as were the sunflowers . a couple a pence worth of pellets and scratch . Made 2 for about 35p each and the birds dont seem to mind ;)
I'll see how they are in the middle, may increase the low heat cooking time if they haven't hardened all the way through , As for other ingredients , maybe some meal worms but they may cook to nothing ,
 

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Marigold said:
If it stopped her eating snails it would be a good thing, as snails slugs and earthworms are hosts to the eggs of chicken worms. I haven't used beak bits on my birds as so far I haven't needed to, but if I had a bad pecking problem I would take the advice of those who had tried them and give them a go. I have heard lots of people say they work, and nobody has said their chicken starved!
Whilst she is separate, it would be best if she could still see the others through the mesh, so not totally out of it.
Thanks Marigold , I didnt know that about the worms :shock:
As far as the beak bits , every body has different opinions on whats right/humane etc. without trying to sound to wooly , we've got to find whats right for us to live with, and to be honest the idea of long term use of the bits dosen't appeal to me much, and I'm un- dissided if it came to it , as to weather a flighty and active bird such as we have might be better suited to a bigger space and established flock were she would be less confined than our little run . I'm pretty sure over zealous pecking is a result of lack of space primarily, both for the aggressor and the victim . I know this is the case with humans, That's why I gave up on politics and religion and decided the only way to make people happy was by changing they spaces they inhabit. Rows seldom start in comfy chairs, :lol:
 
Our little Molly has gone broody with the Bumpa bit in. That's how not bothered she is about it Castara. I would never fit the standard types. I intend to order more for use in France and wish I had discovered the things years ago.

Apply Stockholm Tar with a cotton bud for minimum mess. It needs stirring beforehand as the thick stuff at the bottom needs to go on. Trouble comes when the poor birds try to preen. It gets stuck to their beaks and over their feathers until it dries, which takes several hours. We only use it on cockerels combs.
 
Hey All, Still here . Busy with life things and no internet for a while (cheers Virgin) . But I still got the chooks But its been an adventure , It will take a few posts to bring the thread up to speed , so bear with me :D
 
How's it going, Castara? Has Leia chilled & outgrown the "teenage grumps"?
How are the other two?
 
Oh I do like the way you have panels of corrugated that can be fitted to the sides so easily. I haven't seen that before... I do the same with a plank of wood on one of my coops to reduce a rather large ventilation hole I have but have never thought of doing it with corrugated...

Yes, as mentioned above, bark should be avoided due to the mould spores which can cause respiratory problems and Aspergillosis. Wood chips can be used though, just not bark chips.
 
What to put on the base of your run is a difficult choice. If you have paving stones already then maybe leave them in place. Drainage is a huge issue particularly when we have had (and will continue to get) so much rain. In my experience everything quickly turns to mud, no matter how hard you try and then it becomes a problem to clean the mud...
 
Oh the pictures look lovely but I am worried about the concrete base. I have a small broody pen which I put a solid base under so that rats couldn't get underneath, but then I found that the soil layer on top was permanently waterlogged, and it didn't improve no matter how high I built it. I think it might be a good idea to lift the slabs in the middle just so that the pen can drain.
 
Castara said:
Run taking shape

I'm only half way through this brilliant build thread but I thought I'd ask a question before I forget it... why did you build a back wall to your run (i.e. the screen frames) - why not use the brick wall as the back wall?

I ask as I plan to do just this and wonder if I've missed something important in my plans :)

Thanks

Miles
 
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