Worming?!

Stanley

Stanley

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So after reading another thread, and reading that the Verm X wormer doesnt kill worms, but 'prevents'?
I was skeptical, as it says 'herbal' but i have flubenvet, and mine wont eat it, and they seem to be eating small amounts of Verm X

So, any ideas on how i can make it taste better, I really cant keep them in and only feed them flubenvet, especially this cold as they do just turn their noses up, and im sure it will be very damaging to wait til they really want to eat it :(
Say something sweet/yummy
I tried the powder on the food they love but again didnt want it :(

Theyre all happy, healthy and eating well, but it needs doing!

Thank you in advance!
 
I supposed it would depend on whether you feed pellets or mash but for my lot I mix the flubenvet with olive oil and then coat their pellets with the mixture and it gets scoffed down the same as normal pellets
 
There is another way, if your birds will not eat enough treated pellets to get an effective dose, but I should stress this is an 'unofficial' method.
Assuming you have full- sized adult hens, each bird will eat approx. a kilo of pellets per week. So, for each two birds, you would need to treat 2 kilos with one 6-gram scoop of flubenvet powder, ie the dose per bird equates to 3 grams per week's course.
Measure out 7 eggcupfuls of mixed corn per bird, or whatever grain- type treats they love, add a little oil to coat, then carefully mix in the right amount of Flubenvet for the week's supply for the number of birds you have. Give them one eggcupful each per day at 'treats time' and they will eat it straight off. Watch out for any particularly bossy or greedy bird who will take more than her share, and also for any low- ranking bird who won't get enough, and feed them separately. At the end of the week you will have used up exactly the right amount and will have been able to see that all the birds have taken the medicine without any disruption to their normal feeding patterns.
I am not advising anybody about the desirability of using this method, as I said it's not official, but it does get the stuff into them with minimum disruption and you don't have to shut them up with nothing else but pellets to eat for a whole week. You an also use it on a poorly bird that needs worming but has very little appetite for dry pellets.
 
Thank you!
I have tried coating treats and a bit has been eaten, will keep trying!
If the recommended dose is right could you in theory mix it with anything?
:)
 
You could certainly mix it into a nice warm damp mash (ie, weigh out perhaps about half as many pellets as you think they would eat for a week, treat these with the full amount of flubenvet, divide the pellets into 7 portions, one for each day, and give a damp mash meal for tea each day.) You could mix pellets with a few sunflower seeds or some corn, to make the mix even more attractive. I think it's best to mix the full amount for the week in one go if using this method as if you fiddle about trying to make individual portions each day, the dosage is likely to be inaccurate.
The recommended method of giving only treated pellets dependa on each bird eating as much as she needs, which is fine if they are eating well and in good health anyway, but some birds may not get the dose they need because their appetite is poor if badly infested with worms or affected with some other health problem, or if they just don't like the pellets. The advantage of rhe treated dry pellets method, when it works well, is that the birds take in a steady supply of the drug throughout the day rather than in one dose from the treats method, and in the past we have discussed whether this is nexessary or not, without coming to any firm conclusion I think. I do prefer to do it by the book myself, but I can see there may be circumstances where it's best to just get it into the birds however you can.
 
Yeah, see mine arent a pellet fan, and as we were given our first chooks, they were only fed on mixed corn, as apposed to pellets, so its quite hard as mixed corn is not a treat for those hens..
the best time to get a bit in them is morning, as theyre hungry, but they do come to eat quite often so it would be very close to a steady flow, instead of all at one time, but im willing to try anything, atleast to get something into them
all of them seem to be bright and eating well, and as i supervise the feeding the smaller ones or the ones who eat last get a fresh batch, insetad of eating the bits the others didnt want..
with so many natural treats around its just trying to keep them interested in the food im giving them!
 
Mixed corn is not good as a main diet for adult egglaying hens, as I'm sure you know. Sounds as if you have your own way of persuading them, though i have yet to encounter a hen who didn't go mad for a nice warm mash, I think it must smell more appetising as well as being moist.
 
yeah, over the time ive had them, and my new ones, im putting pellets in, and they are being eaten (this has been normal pellets)
luckily as being free rang they arent relying on me to feed them, although they do come for food often, but its definitely not ideal, and with what i can do, I am continuing to try!
Yes, I gave some of them warm food the other day, and loved it, especially as its so cold!
as I said theres not been any real worry, but id prefer to treat them before it turns into a massive problem!
As i only have the powder, i could try getting the premixed pellets and turning it into a warm mash?
it seems just as easy to make it myself, but i feel reassured knowing the pellets are mixed 100% properly! :)
 
No reason to suppose that pellets you mix yourself are not just as good as those you buy premixed, they both work if the hens eat enough of them. There may be more convenience to pre-treated pellets but however many hens you have, a bag will either not be quite enough for them so you will have to mix up a bit more yourself from powder anyway, or else too much for them to eat in a week so the surplus will be stale in 6 months time and thus wasted.
Why not just mix enough pellets for the week for your hens with the right amount of flubenvet, fill one feeder with treated dry pellets so they can nibble it if they get peckish, and then use the rest in a series of nice warm mashes they will enjoy eating before they go to roost? That way, the dose will be correctly adjusted to each bird's appetite, as you are supposed to do.
 
We use the same method as Dinosaur Stanley. The oil gets the flubenvet to stick to the pellets. Alternative is to administer the oil/ flubenvet mix directly in a shot every day for every bird for 7 days.
 
The 1% treats 2 Kg of feed with the enclosed 6 gramme level scoop Ncotb. The 2.5% treats 5 Kg of feed with the same scoop, but in the packet we bought they didn't provide a scoop. 2 Kg of feed will treat two large fowl hens based on their consumption of 100 -150 grammes of treated feed every day.

When worming individuals, like cockerels, we find it easier to mix half a 1% scoop with 1.7mL of cod liver oil, or olive oil. The resulting mix is about 2.1mL and so a well stirred 0.3mL shot is given once a day for 7 days.
 
chrismahon said:
.

When worming individuals, like cockerels, we find it easier to mix half a 1% scoop with 1.7mL of cod liver oil, or olive oil. The resulting mix is about 2.1mL and so a well stirred 0.3mL shot is given once a day for 7 days.
Click to expand...

This sounds a more difficult way to treat an individual bird than the '7eggcupfuls of corn mixed with half a scoop of powder and given at one eggcupful per day as a treat' method, Chris. You have to mix the stuff every day instead of just once, then catch the bird and struggle to inject the oil, with the risk that it will go down the wrong way, whereas if you give it in treats, he comes to you and just eats it up greedily! I also wonder if it is more effective if it goes down with at least some carbohydrate to assist digestion?
 
Depends on your birds and how you can handle them Marigold. The positive side is that the dose is complete without question and in my experience extremely effective. Problem with treats is one bird can be bullied off and not get a full dose, thus re-infecting the rest very quickly. Although I agree it is easier than our method as the syringes rapidly pack up due to the oil swelling the seal.
 
chrismahon said:
The 1% treats 2 Kg of feed with the enclosed 6 gramme level scoop Ncotb. The 2.5% treats 5 Kg of feed with the same scoop, but in the packet we bought they didn't provide a scoop. 2 Kg of feed will treat two large fowl hens based on their consumption of 100 -150 grammes of treated feed every day.

When worming individuals, like cockerels, we find it easier to mix half a 1% scoop with 1.7mL of cod liver oil, or olive oil. The resulting mix is about 2.1mL and so a well stirred 0.3mL shot is given once a day for 7 days.
Click to expand...

Thanks chris :-)17 am due to worm mine with the 2.5 & got myself confused with the ratio ,after all these years of worming them :-)07 :lol: :lol:
 
Just thought id let you know i premixed enough up, of normal food, and they have been eating it well!
luckily, but lots of other ideas there incase they dont co-operate in future, thank you! :)
 
I've just got hold of some Flubenvet and am trying to figure out the best way to give it to my ducks. They don't each that much of their pellets as they seem to prefer the whole wheat that they get in a bucket of water. Some days they eat quite a lot, some days hardly anything. I'm thinking of mixing the wormer with some oil and then coat a smaller amount of wheat (maybe half to a thirds ration) and serve in the morning and then give them more uncoated wheat in the afternoon as needed, just to make sure that the get the full dose. Does this seem reasonable, or is there a better way?
 
You just need to be sure every duck gets the full dose SaraR. So if you dose the main feed NO side treats. If you dose the treats make sure each one gets their share. That's why ,in that respect, injecting directly is easier for us.
 
chrismahon said:
You just need to be sure every duck gets the full dose SaraR. So if you dose the main feed NO side treats. If you dose the treats make sure each one gets their share. That's why ,in that respect, injecting directly is easier for us.
Click to expand...
I think injecting would have been best for us, but they are not use to be handled much yet, so I think it would stress them too much to try doing it 7 days in a row. I guess I'll just have to try coating the wheat and make sure they eat it all.
 
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