Marriage Layers Pellets + Flubenvet 20Kg (Layers Pellets wit

finleyfreyaseth

New member
Joined
Aug 15, 2012
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
ive got my chickens on layers pellets they roughly 18wks old i dont know if they been wormed before i got them,im going get a bag of marriage layers pellets we flubnevet what i want know is do i keep them on this permanently or can i use the full bag ( going through 20kg bag in roughly 5wks) then go back on normal layers pellets and if i can when would i need to use the layers we wormers again
 
You are advised to use Flubenvet every 6 months, so if you used only 4 kilos in the week's course of treatment, the pellets would probably be out of date by the time another course of the wormer was needed, and certainly wouldn't be useable after that. You shouldn't feed them the treated pellets for longer than the week of treatment as its quite strong stuff and needs to be used as directed. The easiest way for people like you and me, with just a few hens, is to get a pot of the Flubenvet 1% wormimg powder and mix up the 5 kilos you will need by stirring it in to the right weight of untreated pellets. The only problem with this is that at the moment there' s a supply shortage of Flubenvet powder. An alternative is to share a large bag of treated pellets with another chicken keeper of course.
If they are only 18 weeks old and you are happy that they have come from a supplier who has given them clean conditions to grow up in, and if they show no signs of worms and appear lively and healthy, i dont think you really need to worry too much about worming them straight away. When they are mature and in lay, maybe in the Spring, should be a good time to catch up on this, and maybe by then Flubenvet powder will be back on sale.
 
i dont realy know about worming before i got them but i know they were on hard standing and very clean ,they are now in a run we soil and straw on the floor,but they have free range on my allotment nearly everyday for at least a hour or more diggin and eating watever they find.They are very lively and looking well (had years of experience working with animals so used to signs of worm infestation in animals) so id say they ok at moment but id prefer to keep on top of it.
 
I thought that smaller bags were available via the internet. The problem with 20 kgs is that the leftover won't keep for 6 months and if fed, would cause them more problems than worms ! If there is no need you think to dive in and worm them straight away, there will be time to look around for smaller quantities or make a decision to use the powder and mix it yourself.
 
Ummm, I'm a bit concerned that you have the birds on layers pellets if they are not laying, as you say they are only 18 weeks old - if they are laying then ignore this!.

I'm a newbie but read a lot on this forum and others, and the impression I have is that layers pellets contain too much calcium if the birds have not started laying. Are layers pellets the only commercially produced feed that includes a wormer?
 
I don't think one would normally worm birds before this age, unless there was reason to think that they came from a dirty place where they had been poorly kept and exposed to heavy risk of infection. (And unless they were 'rescue' birds you wouldnt be getting them from somewhere like that anyway!) When I get new pullets I normally worm them when my older birds are due for dosing, then after that they are all in synch. for doing at the same time. If I didnt have any older ones I would probably do the POLs some time between 18-24 weeks so they were treated before they came into lay. I've found that it takes them a week or two to settle down enough to eat normally, so doing it as soon as they arrive might not get the full dose into them.
When I've raised birds from chicks or young growers I've always given them growers food, for the reasons you say, Margaid, also the protein levels are less in growers food so they grow on more slowly and steadily. You have to give them something, so it might as well be the right stuff! Ideally, yes, it would be good to continue this until they come into lay, and with 18-week-old purebred POLs at this time of year this may be 10 weeks or more ahead, not until after Christmas. But it's also a matter of convenience and avoiding waste - you don't want to be left with most of a big bag of growers feed if you've only used a small part of it between 18 weeks and start of lay, for just a small number of birds. Over 18 weeks it probably doesn't make a lot of difference what sort you feed them, so would be OK to use layers feed if that was best for you.
 
10kg Bags of Marriages layers pellets are available from the Farmandpetplace website. :D
 
They will be OK after 18 weeks being put on layers Margaid according to the feed manufactures, who base their statement on the majority of domestic keepers who buy hybrids that will lay at 21 weeks or so. I personally, based on my information, never put our Pedigrees on layers until the first has laid. Read the other day that the Calcium for the shells actually comes from the hens own bones which is in turn replaced by the Calcium in the diet. This is as opposed to the Calcium in the diet going directly to the eggs. The excessive Calcium is fatal to young chicks and causes kidney failure. The risk diminishes with age until at 18 weeks it is acceptable.
 
My hens are on a grain based diet with, amongst other things, cod liver oil and micronised peas. Before they all went into moult they were laying really big wonderful tasting eggs. I don't think they have started laying again although I think they have finished moulting - we have had a couple of slightly darker eggs which may be their's but Murphy's law says the one that has gone missing was the really dark egg layer. Anita's Cream Legbar has stopped laying but her 2 remaining hybrids (the Calder Ranger was killed by the hounds) seem to be still laying - eggs are in short supply!

Calcium uptake is a weird thing - even in humans. We need Vitamin D and FAT to absorb it, so skimmed or semi-skimmed milk means you don't absorb the calcium.
 
If I was laying eggs then I'd be fine Margaid. We only have 'Lait entier' here -full fat milk. Eggs are in short supply here as well. One every other day at the moment. The TNN's have started moulting and one has still gone broody! Fortunately the weather is still very mild.
 
Saw this thread, and thought I'd post a quick note. I spoke to the vet guy at the place I bought a 10kg bag of this 'medicated' feed. I'll only get thurogh 1/2 this time, and I asked him about keeping for 6 months. He told me that the grain etc in the pellets has a shelf life of a couple of years - and the flubenvet even longer. His concern that was that the added vitamins in the feed have a much shorter shelf life, but suggested that if I put some tonic in their drinking water when I give them the rest of the bag next year it should all be fine..

FWIW...

Nick
 
That's interesting. I have just ordered over the internet, and they told me that it was no good ordering too many (it was much cheaper on the carriage if I had ordered enough for two treatments) As the use by date would always be out of date by the time they needed treating again.

Anyone have any firm info on this, as I could have saved a stack of money by ordering enough to last two treatmens.
 
Hmm not sure I'd agree with the vet. The protein would also deteriorate.

Proteins can be degraded by exposure to light but the main cause of protein degradation is through enzyme action. A classic example is milk turning sour - or when cheese ripens. It's the protein degrading that gives the cheese some of its lovely ripe flavour!

With a lack of protein, the first thing to go is egg production.

Personally, I use a tub of Flubenvet and mix my own but I realise many people don't have as many beaks to feed and the pre-mix is convenient.
 
Tim said:
Personally, I use a tub of Flubenvet and mix my own but I realise many people don't have as many beaks to feed and the pre-mix is convenient.

I think ita easier to mix enough for just a few hens, i thought the advantage of the premixed was that its hard to find a big enough container to mix large amounts reliably and easily. I allow 5 kilos for my four hens and this seems to be about right for the week. This amount is easy to mix in a large container.
 
It is very difficult, though not impossible to store feed over a long period so that it does not absorb damp. When it does get damp, moulds set in which makes it very dangerous to feed to livestock and can cause bigger problems than worms. Add this to deterioration of the vitamins, protein and the medication it doesn't seem worth the risk.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top