Hi Val, how exciting! You will find them very different from chickens, but all your incubation and rearing experience will come in handy. A lot of your questions will be answered by reading past threads in this section, but the best book is Practical Quail Keeping by Sarah Barratt. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Practical-Quail-keeping-Sarah-Barratt/dp/1847974635/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1518607173&sr=1-1&keywords=practical+quail+keeping
and some of my own threads and bits of video are on p.6 of the Quail subforum http://poultrykeeperforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=5755
Meanwhile; incubator temperature 37.5-38C; turn eggs several times a day, stopping after 14 days; incubate totally dry until turning stops; at that point put a cloth or other grippy liner to cover the surface where they will hatch as their legs are so tiny and frail at first (think hatching bumblebees) and turn up the humidity for pipping; expect the hatch on Day 16. No point trying to candle the eggs as they have such confusing camouflage patterns on them, and the shell is so thin that the less they're handled the better. However, this does make hatching quick and easy, usually, they just sort of cut round the top of the egg like you would do a boiled egg at breakfast time. Dry off then transfer to brooder warmed to same temp as the incubator, as usual. Feed fresh chick crumb, scattered over the floor to start with, and provide water initially in a shallow dish with pebbles in to prevent drowning, then progress to a drinker with a lip that projects through the brooder mesh, to keep the brooder dry and clean. Cleanliness and dryness of brooder v. important, they are really dirty little things and it's not possible to poo pick as they do such tiny squidgy poos. I set up the brooder by cutting several layers of old cotton sheeting to fit the floor, with newspaper underneath, and then gently rolled up and removed a layer when it was dirty, taking care not to roll up a chick in the process! They will need heat as usual to start with, but they feather up very fast so you can reduce the heat a few degrees every day or so and they should be pretty well feathered up and off heat indoors by 4 weeks.
Yes they certainly do fly, straight upwards and outwards, when alarmed, so you need a mesh over the brooder and also the run when they're out of doors. Normally they're ground feeders though, and like to be able to take refuge in little huts or under little bushes for camouflage. I didn't find that mine got very tame but there again, you're better at that sort of thing than I am. My main problem was with the boys, who always seemed to make up the great majority of the hatches, and their aggressive tactics when their teenage hormones clocked in overnight and then they raped and badly injured the girls by gripping their heads with their beaks and not letting go when they were thrown off, causing terrible injuries. I had to cull all the boys, after which the girls settled down peacefully together and laid well for several years.
Its no good, Val, you'll just HAVE to find out how to post pics on here - or take some videos, upload them to Youtube and send us the link!