My name is Mike Grace. I am new to Poultrykeeperforum. I have been wanting to share my best practices for backyard coop lighting with fellow backyard chicken coop families. For all of you that don't have much experience with installing lighting in your coops and for those of you that think you know it all...please read this guide so that your birds are not stressed out and/or laying low quality eggs with thin shells and etc. If any of you want any additional advice you can DM me. Thanks and happy raising!
Coop Lighting Guide
- Thread starter Birdking
- Start date
No problem. I hope I did this right. I am not the best internet guy!
Hello my name is Mike Grace. I am new to this forum but not to raising layers and chickens. I have been a happy back yard chicken keeper for the past 22 years and I currently have a flock of 12 hens and 1 rooster. I also founded an agricultural lighting systems company 16 years ago and it has become one of the largest brands and well known brands in the commercial broiler and layer chicken farming market in the USA.
I have learned through experience about the best lighting practices which should be implemented to both enhance egg production AND create the best environment for happy birds.
Over the years I have encountered a large number of fellow back yard chicken keepers who just have no idea how to manage one of the most critical aspects of chicken/hen care and maintenance; Lighting. Many people simply do nothing about lighting and leave their birds exposed to the whims of nature thinking that this is “best for their birds”. Because of the terrible installations and practices with artificial lighting in back yard coops/farms today I would have to say that the people who are not using artificial light are likely better off when it comes to egg quality and productivity and hen welfare. But that doesn’t mean its what’s best for their birds.
Let me give you a quick run down of the best practices for lighting with chickens/hens:
1. The domestic chicken/hen (Gallus gallus domesticus) originated from the Red Junglefowl (Gallus gallus), which is native to tropical regions of Southeast Asia (around the equator). This meant that these birds experienced 12 hours of light and dark every day of the year for thousands and thousands of years of evolution. As a result, outside of their roughly 12 week molting times they were fertile and productive the rest of the year.
2. Now with the large number of breeds which have been created from the original Gallus gallus, we have domestic chickens/hens being raised all over the world today. These birds are raised as far north as Alaska and Scandinavia and as far south as Argentine and New Zealand. This means the birds have had to adjust to large swings in the number of daylight hours they are exposed to every day. This has not had a positive effect on the welfare of these birds as it puts additional stress on them that they are not naturally adapted for. This reduces their lifespan and productivity in producing the largest number of high quality eggs. So adding artificial light if done well is actually beneficial to the birds health, well being, egg quality and productivity.
3. Now, when you install artificial lighting inside a coop (and run) you must follow the below minimum requirements:
Absolute Musts in no particular order of importance:
*Always add artificial light in the morning and NEVER in the evening/dusk. These birds depend on roosting to a natural sunset and trying to replace that with artificial lighting takes an house design that is built from the ground up for artificial lighting ONLY (blackened house with no natural light). Why it is SO important to add artificial light in the morning and never the evening:
Prevents Sudden Darkness & Disorientation
*Never turn lights on to full intensity. Always slowly increase the intensity of the light when bringing the light on in the morning to best replicate a natural sunrise.
Mimics Natural Sunrise for a Gentle Wake-Up
Meets Organic Farming Standards
*Only use low voltage lighting inside a chicken coop and run. Anything under 24 volts is best and this is actually the standard operating voltage for LED chips and COB. Chickens/Hens/Rooster’s are incredibly curious and can do things you cannot imagine when it comes to pecking and biting and accessing hard to reach places. So even if you think you have wired a 110 volt light very well inside your house, you may find that one of your birds will at some point cause a short in the line and best case kill itself and worst case burn the coop down with all the birds inside. Traditional high-voltage lights (120V or 240V) will be a fire hazard, especially in coops with dust, feathers, and dry bedding (straw, wood shavings). Please stay away from it.
*Always use FULL SPECTRUM light COLOR. There are many arguments out there between professionals about the best KELVIN color to be used with artificial poultry/chicken lighting. Why take the risk that one is right and one is wrong when you can have it all? Full-spectrum lighting is best for chickens because it mimics natural sunlight and covers the gambit of the color spectrum. This full spectrum light is essential for their health, behavior, and productivity. Yes, it costs a bit more but with LED’s now lasting for 10,000 hours minimum you will get at least 3 years out of your lighting these days so the difference in cost is trivial when spread out over this period. Don’t cheap out on this. You and your birds will be sorry for it. I always laugh when I go over a person’s house and they have full spectrum in their fish tank and a cheap 2700K light bulb in their chicken coop. Here’s why it’s beneficial and critical for chickens/hens:
Supports Egg Production
Type and Placement of Lighting
I have learned through experience about the best lighting practices which should be implemented to both enhance egg production AND create the best environment for happy birds.
Over the years I have encountered a large number of fellow back yard chicken keepers who just have no idea how to manage one of the most critical aspects of chicken/hen care and maintenance; Lighting. Many people simply do nothing about lighting and leave their birds exposed to the whims of nature thinking that this is “best for their birds”. Because of the terrible installations and practices with artificial lighting in back yard coops/farms today I would have to say that the people who are not using artificial light are likely better off when it comes to egg quality and productivity and hen welfare. But that doesn’t mean its what’s best for their birds.
Let me give you a quick run down of the best practices for lighting with chickens/hens:
1. The domestic chicken/hen (Gallus gallus domesticus) originated from the Red Junglefowl (Gallus gallus), which is native to tropical regions of Southeast Asia (around the equator). This meant that these birds experienced 12 hours of light and dark every day of the year for thousands and thousands of years of evolution. As a result, outside of their roughly 12 week molting times they were fertile and productive the rest of the year.
2. Now with the large number of breeds which have been created from the original Gallus gallus, we have domestic chickens/hens being raised all over the world today. These birds are raised as far north as Alaska and Scandinavia and as far south as Argentine and New Zealand. This means the birds have had to adjust to large swings in the number of daylight hours they are exposed to every day. This has not had a positive effect on the welfare of these birds as it puts additional stress on them that they are not naturally adapted for. This reduces their lifespan and productivity in producing the largest number of high quality eggs. So adding artificial light if done well is actually beneficial to the birds health, well being, egg quality and productivity.
3. Now, when you install artificial lighting inside a coop (and run) you must follow the below minimum requirements:
Absolute Musts in no particular order of importance:
*Always add artificial light in the morning and NEVER in the evening/dusk. These birds depend on roosting to a natural sunset and trying to replace that with artificial lighting takes an house design that is built from the ground up for artificial lighting ONLY (blackened house with no natural light). Why it is SO important to add artificial light in the morning and never the evening:
Prevents Sudden Darkness & Disorientation
- Chickens cannot see well in the dark. If the artificial light suddenly turns off in the evening, they may panic, fall off perches, or struggle to find their roosting spot.
- In contrast, if you add light slowly in the morning (sunrise), they wake up gradually, just like they would with natural sunrise.
- Adding light in the morning gradually extends their daylight without disrupting their natural evening roosting behavior.
- At sunset, chickens naturally return to the coop and settle in before darkness, which is an important survival instinct.
- Sudden darkness in the evening can cause panic, pecking, and aggressive behavior among flock members.
- A natural dusk transition lets them calmly find their place on the roost and prepare for sleep.
- Chickens need at least 14–16 hours of light for consistent egg-laying.
- By adding light in the morning, you maintain this cycle without disrupting their natural roosting instincts.
*Never turn lights on to full intensity. Always slowly increase the intensity of the light when bringing the light on in the morning to best replicate a natural sunrise.
Mimics Natural Sunrise for a Gentle Wake-Up
- Reverse dimming lights gradually increase in brightness in the morning, simulating a natural sunrise.
- This helps hens wake up gradually instead of being startled by a sudden bright light.
- A gradual light increase also helps them start their day calmly, reducing stress and aggression.
Meets Organic Farming Standards
- Many organic certification programs (like USDA Organic and EU Organic) require natural-like conditions for poultry, including a gradual transition between night and day in the morning.
- Reverse dimming (sunrise) helps ensure that lighting doesn’t disrupt the birds' natural behaviors.
- If hens wake up to sudden bright light, they may startle, flap, or fall from perches, leading to injuries.
- A reverse dimming sunrise gives them time to adjust and move naturally.
- A smooth light transition in the morning helps maintain consistent egg-laying cycles without stressing the birds.
- Hens that experience less stress lay better-quality eggs and have stronger immune systems.
*Only use low voltage lighting inside a chicken coop and run. Anything under 24 volts is best and this is actually the standard operating voltage for LED chips and COB. Chickens/Hens/Rooster’s are incredibly curious and can do things you cannot imagine when it comes to pecking and biting and accessing hard to reach places. So even if you think you have wired a 110 volt light very well inside your house, you may find that one of your birds will at some point cause a short in the line and best case kill itself and worst case burn the coop down with all the birds inside. Traditional high-voltage lights (120V or 240V) will be a fire hazard, especially in coops with dust, feathers, and dry bedding (straw, wood shavings). Please stay away from it.
*Always use FULL SPECTRUM light COLOR. There are many arguments out there between professionals about the best KELVIN color to be used with artificial poultry/chicken lighting. Why take the risk that one is right and one is wrong when you can have it all? Full-spectrum lighting is best for chickens because it mimics natural sunlight and covers the gambit of the color spectrum. This full spectrum light is essential for their health, behavior, and productivity. Yes, it costs a bit more but with LED’s now lasting for 10,000 hours minimum you will get at least 3 years out of your lighting these days so the difference in cost is trivial when spread out over this period. Don’t cheap out on this. You and your birds will be sorry for it. I always laugh when I go over a person’s house and they have full spectrum in their fish tank and a cheap 2700K light bulb in their chicken coop. Here’s why it’s beneficial and critical for chickens/hens:
Supports Egg Production
- Chickens need light to stimulate egg-laying. Their reproductive cycle is regulated by daylight length, and full-spectrum lighting provides the right wavelengths to encourage consistent laying.
- The blue and green wavelengths in full-spectrum light help stimulate egg production, similar to natural sunlight.
- Full-spectrum light helps chickens see better since their vision is more advanced than humans’.
- Chickens can see UV light, which helps them recognize food, mates, and even differentiate individuals in the flock. Without UV light, their vision is incomplete.
- UVB light in full-spectrum bulbs helps chickens synthesize Vitamin D3, which is crucial for calcium absorption and strong eggshells.
- Chicks raised under poor lighting conditions may suffer from weak bones, poor feathering, and reduced growth rates.
- Chickens under dim or unnatural lighting can become stressed or aggressive, leading to problems like feather pecking or cannibalism.
- Proper lighting helps them maintain a normal circadian rhythm, reducing stress and promoting a calm flock.
- Using full-spectrum lighting in a controlled way helps regulate molting cycles, ensuring birds go through their natural shedding process at the right time.
Type and Placement of Lighting
- Over the roosting area and over run area if bird’s food and drink are there and they have access to it (important): Ensure the lights are positioned above the roosting bars and run where the hens sleep and/or eat.
second half of lighting guide!
Consider and account for the annual molt. I have seen so many backyard coop with artificial lighting on a timer where the lighting is managed at 14-16 hours per day (good) ALL YEAR LONG (BAAAAADDDDDD). Lighting changes are the main dynamic that drives the annual molt in late summer and fall.
Hens MUST GO THROUGH an annual molt for best results and well being. Here are the specifics of why this is SO IMPORTANT for your birds:
Hens must go through an annual molting cycle for several important reasons related to health, productivity, and natural behavior. Here's why it's essential for hens to molt:
Feather Renewal
There are two ways to “induce” the required annual molt:
Reduction in lighting (best to do this naturally with the SUN)
Adjustments to food
BEST is to do a little of both!
The timeline for the molting process looks like the below timeline and should happen at a minimum every two years to keep the birds healthy and safe:
Molting Phase: 4-6 weeks depending on bird type and location
Recovery and Regrowth Phase: 4-6 weeks depending on bird type and location
FOOD/NUTRITION:
Lower protein intake to 15% (use a grower feed or mix layer feed with grains like oats)
Reduce calcium slightly by removing oyster shell or calcium supplements (if you give them…if you do not don’t worry)
Increase fiber – Add oats, barley, or wheat bran to their diet (do this once per day)
Limit feed slightly (if needed) to slow laying and initiate molt naturally.
Monitor hens – When they start molting, maintain this diet for 4 weeks.
After 4 weeks, Switch back to high-protein feed (add back normal feed) – This increased protein supports quick and strong feather regrowth.
Return calcium levels to normal – Start providing oyster shell or crushed eggshells again
The Hens will stop laying during the molting phase and this will be the case for about 4-6 weeks. SO each year you will lose egg production for 4-6 or maybe even 8 weeks depending on the breed and age of the hens. But this is much better then losing four to five months of egg production or consistent productivity from your hens.
When it comes lighting for chicks or pullets there are some unique things to consider during their early stages of life when it comes to the use of artificial lighting:
Light Triggers Sexual Maturity
Optimal Light Duration for Early Laying
That is the full list of the “MUST DO’s” for any artificial lighting install in a back yard chicken/hen coop. If you would like more information concerning the good to have tidbits for coop lighting and if you wish to see other great ideas for your coop you can look me up.
My farm is called Solaye Coop-Collective. Google it! Check me out there if you wish to see my set up. Happy Raising!!!!
- Avoid direct glare: Place lights in such a way that they don't directly shine into the chickens' eyes or create hotspots that could cause stress. This is why a WIDE BEAM angle light is REQUIRED. The very best solution comes from COB rope lighting that offers 320 degree beam angles with one continuous filament all the way along the light line. This ensures no bright spots which can harm the birds eyes and vision.
- Cover the light: Ensure the lighting fixtures are protected from dust, moisture, and pecking by placing them inside waterproof fixtures or using covered light bulbs. BEST to make the lighting completely IP65 waterproof. This is where a 100% sealing silicone encapsulated light line will be best for your house.
Consider and account for the annual molt. I have seen so many backyard coop with artificial lighting on a timer where the lighting is managed at 14-16 hours per day (good) ALL YEAR LONG (BAAAAADDDDDD). Lighting changes are the main dynamic that drives the annual molt in late summer and fall.
Hens MUST GO THROUGH an annual molt for best results and well being. Here are the specifics of why this is SO IMPORTANT for your birds:
Hens must go through an annual molting cycle for several important reasons related to health, productivity, and natural behavior. Here's why it's essential for hens to molt:
Feather Renewal
- Molting allows hens to shed old, damaged feathers and grow new, healthy ones.
- Feathers play a crucial role in insulation and protection, so renewing them ensures hens stay warm in winter and comfortable in all seasons.
- Without molting, chickens would eventually have worn-out feathers, leading to poor insulation, discomfort, and potential vulnerability to environmental stressors like cold weather or pests.
- During molting, hens typically stop laying eggs for a period of time. This rest period gives their reproductive system a break, allowing it to recharge and recover for the next laying cycle. With a “managed molting process” this non productive period is optimized and covers a period of 8-10 weeks.
- Egg production is energy-intensive, and molting helps conserve energy for long-term productivity. Without molting, hens may face reproductive exhaustion, reducing the quality of eggs and overall health and even “sudden death”
- The molt process is closely tied to hormonal cycles that regulate egg-laying and feather growth.
- As daylight hours decrease, hens experience a drop in melatonin and estrogen, signaling the body to stop egg-laying and begin shedding feathers.
- This natural cycle helps synchronize the hen’s reproductive and growth cycles with the changing seasons, ensuring optimal health and productivity.
- Molting ensures that hens don’t overuse their physical resources by constantly producing eggs without a break.
- The annual molt helps hens conserve essential nutrients, like calcium, that are needed for egg production and bone health.
- By taking a break from laying, hens can restore depleted nutrients, leading to stronger eggshells and healthier birds.
- Molting is a natural cycle that has evolved as part of chickens’ biology
- Hens instinctively know when to molt as they are influenced by daylight hours and weather changes. During this time, their behavior slows down, which is a natural rest period from the intensity of egg production.
- Flocks often undergo molting together, which can contribute to flock cohesion and well-being.
- Feather production requires high levels of protein, which can help boost the immune system.
- The molting process triggers the hen’s body to repair and regenerate, allowing it to recover from any physical stress it may have accumulated over the year.
- Healthy molting is linked to stronger overall immunity, reducing the risk of illness and helping hens thrive.
- Without a break for molting, hens would become less efficient at laying eggs over time. Egg production might decrease or quality could decline. By following a natural annual molt, hens can lay eggs more consistently throughout their life.
There are two ways to “induce” the required annual molt:
Reduction in lighting (best to do this naturally with the SUN)
Adjustments to food
BEST is to do a little of both!
The timeline for the molting process looks like the below timeline and should happen at a minimum every two years to keep the birds healthy and safe:
Molting Phase: 4-6 weeks depending on bird type and location
Recovery and Regrowth Phase: 4-6 weeks depending on bird type and location
FOOD/NUTRITION:
Lower protein intake to 15% (use a grower feed or mix layer feed with grains like oats)
Reduce calcium slightly by removing oyster shell or calcium supplements (if you give them…if you do not don’t worry)
Increase fiber – Add oats, barley, or wheat bran to their diet (do this once per day)
Limit feed slightly (if needed) to slow laying and initiate molt naturally.
Monitor hens – When they start molting, maintain this diet for 4 weeks.
After 4 weeks, Switch back to high-protein feed (add back normal feed) – This increased protein supports quick and strong feather regrowth.
Return calcium levels to normal – Start providing oyster shell or crushed eggshells again
The Hens will stop laying during the molting phase and this will be the case for about 4-6 weeks. SO each year you will lose egg production for 4-6 or maybe even 8 weeks depending on the breed and age of the hens. But this is much better then losing four to five months of egg production or consistent productivity from your hens.
When it comes lighting for chicks or pullets there are some unique things to consider during their early stages of life when it comes to the use of artificial lighting:
Light Triggers Sexual Maturity
- Chickens/hens rely on day length (photoperiod) to regulate their reproductive system.
- Increasing artificial light exposure mimics longer daylight hours, triggering the release of hormones like gonadotropins and luteinizing hormone (LH), which stimulate egg production. THE KEY TO THIS IS TO GIVE THE CHICKS A MINIMUM OF 14 HOURS OF LIGHT PER DAY.
Optimal Light Duration for Early Laying
- For young pullets (chicks maturing into hens), gradually increasing light exposure to 14 hours per day encourages earlier onset of egg production.
- Sudden or inconsistent lighting changes can delay laying and cause stress. NEVER TURN LIGHTS INSTANT ON OR OFF. ALWAYS USING REVERSE DIMMING FOR SUNRISE
- NEVER USE ARTIFICIAL LIGHTING FOR SUNSET. RELY ON NATURAL SUNSET TO GET THE CHICKS INTO ROOSTING MODE AS EARLY AS POSSIBLE.
- Warm white or red-spectrum light (2700K–3000K) is best for stimulating reproductive hormones. To cover all the needs of the birds in the coop (young and old) install FULL SPECTRUM lighting as mentioned above.
- Light intensity of 20 lux is ideal—too bright may cause stress, while too dim won't be effective.
- Without proper lighting, pullets might delay egg production until natural light cycles increase in the summer months, resulting in later-than-expected laying.
- In colder months, artificial lighting compensates for shorter daylight, preventing seasonal drops in egg production. As is explained above.
That is the full list of the “MUST DO’s” for any artificial lighting install in a back yard chicken/hen coop. If you would like more information concerning the good to have tidbits for coop lighting and if you wish to see other great ideas for your coop you can look me up.
My farm is called Solaye Coop-Collective. Google it! Check me out there if you wish to see my set up. Happy Raising!!!!
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