Tape worm

[rick]

Is tape worm in chickens an acute problem do we think?
I have got the impression before that it isn't - even some suggestion that it is not a worry at all! But I always wonder where the guidance derives from - like, if it were a commercial flock then the veterinary advice might be that it wont affect egg laying in the remaining time before the end of the production cycle. Or is it that they can get along fine indefinitely with a moderate population
Some tape worm segments are appearing in the droppings under the perch in the morning. They were wormed with Flubenvet a month ago but I know that isn't effective with tape worm.
This is the first time we have ever had them show up. Maybe something in the diet to keeps them in check? Or down the vets for a prescription?

 

[Tweetypie]

Hi Rick
I was/am due to worm my hens next week, when the pellets with flubenvet are delivered.I found this article interesting, although in USA. When I used my powder form wormer in February and had an egg count done, there were no worms/eggs present. I used flubenzadole, which works against tape worms.

https://www.viovet.co.uk/Flubendazole-1/c39027/?quick_find=249655&gclid=Cj0KCQjwt4X8BRCPARIsABmcnOqIF32Z4o58qFf1cVlsBxqIO59koayNoIh2SmTg6ye9eo6FBAYH1C8aAtoDEALw_wcB

Tapeworms in Chickens
Various species of tapeworms affect chickens. These intestinal parasites also vary in size and length. Younger birds tend to suffer from tapeworm infestation more often than older flock members. Such infestations mean that young birds grow more slowly than normal, producing fewer eggs than unaffected birds. Adult tapeworms usually lodge in the bird's scolex, or small intestine.

Intermediate Hosts
Tapeworms need an intermediate host for a developmental stage before going on to the primary host and completing the life cycle. Chickens consume these intermediate hosts, which harbor tapeworm larvae, and become infected. For poultry, those intermediate hosts are generally insects. For chickens kept in cages, flies often serve this purpose. If free-ranging, intermediate hosts include various insects along with worms, snails and slugs. While fly control in the coop can cut down on this species as an intermediate host, it's much more difficult to eradicate the intermediate hosts of free-range birds safely. One way to keep earthworm consumption down is by removing chicken access to any newly plowed areas.

Snails and Slug Management
Safe, environmentally responsible ways of getting rid of snails and slugs include trapping the creatures beneath boards or upside-down plant pots in your yard. If you're truly motivated, you can handpick snails and slugs by watering areas in which they congregate in the late afternoon. The moisture draws them out. After dark, use a flashlight, pick them off and throw them out in a plastic bag. Although unpleasant and time-consuming, doing this on a daily basis in the beginning can vastly reduce the number of snails and slugs in areas available to your flock; eventually a weekly picking should suffice.

Chicken Parasite Management
Careful management can keep your flock relatively free from tapeworms. This includes regularly cleaning litter from the coop floor and disposing of it in an area inaccessible to chickens. Use appropriate insecticides in coops or free-range areas when birds aren't present. As the Merck Veterinary Manual points out, doing so can destroy intermediate hosts, thus interrupting the tapeworm's life cycle.

Using Dewormers
Regularly treating your backyard flock with dewormers that are effective against other types of intestinal parasites can keep tapeworms to a minimum. These include fenbendazole, sold under the brand name Panacur. Each treatment requires two doses, given seven to 10 days apart. After dosing your chickens, throw out any eggs laid during the treatment period and for the next seven days. Don't slaughter a bird for meat until at least seven days after the last treatment.



VIDEO OF THE DAY

 

[rick]

That's really interesting - both from the point of flies being the intermediate host (we have had a lot this year and not the sort of garden that attracts a lot of snails and slugs) and that there is an intermediate host in the life cycle. What with the flies giving up for the year now, it seems that a good scrub down clean and redoing the Flubenvet might knock them back enough. I must get a new pot of Flubenvet powder - this end of a pot has gone a couple of months out of date. (rolls up sleeves.) Last year I used a Red Top trap and it worked very well but ponged awful - might be worth it at the height of summer though.

 

[Marigold]

Flubenzadole is the generic name for Flubenvet, and as you say, Rick, doesn’t deal with tapeworms.
The link that Tweetypie posted mentions fenbenzadole, sold as Panacur, which does tapeworms. So maybe ask the vet for some of that, Rick, if prescription only?

 

[Marigold]

This is a good summary, and notes that Flubenvet isn't licensed for tapeworms. It also comes out strongly against Vermex and similar treatments, without naming them.

https://veterinary-practice.com/article/common-poultry-worms

 

[chrismahon]

We had a large flock of young Wyandottes which contracted tapeworm Rick- puzzled at first what these white segments were lying around the run? The internet searches weren't then what they are now, so we tried Flubenvet with no effect whatsoever. In desperation (to avoid a vet callout) a week later tried Verm-X and would you believe it, no tapeworm segments in the run ever again. So in effect the drug wouldn't kill them but the change in gut environment did. Whilst Verm-X may not be very effective with worms in general, it's probably better than ACV in the water once a month. If we do get tapeworm again (unlikely here as it gets so hot) we'll reach for the Verm-X straight away.

 

[rick]

That's a frightening list from the vet practice! I think most of them are fairly uncommon luckily. I've only ever seen Capillaria (which is urgent) other than the ubiquitous Roundworm.
That was what I was wondering Chris - seeing as they only have to be kept under control something like the herbal preps might make it uncomfortable enough for them to keep them to a minimum. Or maybe even have them packing their bags like seems to have happened for you! I think I have a bottle of Verm-X in the cupboard but maybe get another as its been there 3 years at least.

 

[rick]

The old bottle of Verm-X had a yeasty froth and smelled remarkably like sherry with a dash of garlic - almost tempting! I'll pick up a new bottle.

 

[Marigold]

The old bottle of Verm-X had a yeasty froth and smelled remarkably like sherry with a dash of garlic - almost tempting! I'll pick up a new bottle.

Good stuff. I hope you enjoyed it. It would be a pity to waste it on the chickens.

 

[rick]

How do you give it Chris? The bottle says 1.5ml per bird but in water - seems very much like guesswork. Do you mix it with bread or food as given as the option? Its a concoction of herbal stuff so I guess it isn't too prescriptive but I wonder if its better given on a treat where, at least, an amount can be sure to be consumed?

 

[chrismahon]

We used to give it on bread Rick. Measure out the required amount for the flock into a small bowl. Cut the crusts off a slice (or slices) of white and then cut it into half inch squares. Dip one end into it (if you soak the squares they fall apart) and put them all onto a plate. Then throw the whole lot in at once over a large area (2m2) and they will all guzzle roughly the same number. Perhaps brown bread would be healthier?

 

[rick]

That worked a treat! Linden, of course, spent most of the time offering the bread to the others. He did get some though.